Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Where art thou?

I went for a long walk this morning up to, and in the hills behind, the Guan-yin 觀世音菩薩 Temple on Guanyin Mountain, in Taichung's 台中 Dakeng area. I'm out of shape after the trip back to the U.S. and the effects were apparent, but I quickly got my wind back, and enjoyed the beautiful weather. Below left is a photo of the Beitun District 北屯區 of Taichung taken on the walk up to the hilltop temple:

 

"China to lend treasures to Taiwan", as this article on the BBC's website, explains:

"China is to lend 29 treasures to Taiwan for an exhibition - the first such cultural exchange in 60 years. The artifacts from Beijing's 北京 Palace Museum date from the Qing Dynasty , and will be shown for three months at the National Palace Museum 國立故宮博物院 in Taipei 台北...It will be the first time treasures have been lent to Taiwan since the end of that conflict, when the Chinese Communist Party 中国共产党 took power on the mainland...The exchange is being seen as the latest sign of improvement in relations between Taiwan and...China. Nevertheless, Taiwan remains reluctant to send any of the treasures it holds to China for fear that they may be impounded, although it has lent them to other countries."

The story is well-known of how the KMT 中國國民黨 shipped many of China's imperial art treasures to Taiwan at the end of the civil war 国共内战 in 1949. The priceless works of art were used by the Nationalist government to promote the propaganda that Taiwan was the last bastion of traditional Chinese culture (and by extension that Taiwan was a part of a larger Chinese state), in the face of the threat from the destructive communist hordes. Considering the damage done to China's artistic heritage during the lunacy that was the Cultural Revolution 文化大革命, there is some truth to the KMT's assertions. No doubt many of the pieces currently stored in the mountains behind the National Palace Museum would not have survived the revolutionary fervor of the Red Guards 红卫兵. But both Taiwan and China have changed a lot in the decades since. A sense of a separate Taiwanese identity has taken root in the post-martial law years, and the justification for keeping these works of art in Taiwan, and not in their rightful place in the Forbidden City 故宫 in Beijing, has gotten weaker during the same period. If Taiwan is a separate country from China, why should it continue to hold on to art works that have no little or no connection to the island? In order to solidify a separate Taiwanese identity, wouldn't it be best for all concerned to return the thousands of pieces of art to China? Otherwise, might a controversy arise similar to that of the Elgin Marbles being kept in the British Museum?

The easy answer, unless you're a rabid Chinese nationalist, would be to send it all back to Beijing, and develop instead a museum devoted to Taiwanese art. However, seeing as the National Palace Museum is one of the few world-class tourist sights in Taiwan, that might not be such a wise choice. Protecting these treasures from destruction, and putting them on display for all to see, was one of the few accomplishments the KMT could be proud of during the dictatorial period. One China or an independent Taiwan, it could be said the National Palace Museum has earned the right to hold on to the collection, at least until a clearer picture emerges of the direction in which China is now headed (a more democratic society? a continuation of a one-party dictatorship? a breakup of the state?). Eventually, the question of what to do with the art will have to be answered, but in the meantime, Taiwan should be in no hurry to give up what it has been holding onto these past 60 years or so.

Friday, February 13, 2009

うぷう会うえ

得得ええ


NOTE:
You leave the house for a couple of hours, and come home to find your three year-old daughter has somehow managed to post an entry on your blog. In Japanese, no less.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Nothing new

It's been a week now since we got back from the USA, and virtually nothing of interest has happened in that span. I'm over the jet lag and back to work, the weather is already beginning to warm up and our visit back home is starting to blur into a distant, though pleasant, memory. One of the many nice things about being out of Taiwan for two weeks was getting away from the myopic local news reporting. Now that I'm back there's no escape from the ongoing media obsession with all things Chen Shui-bian 陳水扁. Other events going on in the world - the stimulus package proposed by President Obama (I love the way that looks and sounds!), the deadly bushfires in Australia, the Israeli general election - all get little or no attention paid to them, while Chen and his extended family are reported on virtually 24/7. Once in a while, the international media takes notice, as the BBC did the other day when it reported on the guilty plea entered by the ex-president's wife ("Taiwan's ex-first lady in court"):

"A former Taiwanese first lady has pleaded guilty to money-laundering and forgery but denied embezzlement charges in a high-profile corruption case. Wu Shu-chen said she had accepted a $2.2m (¥200 million) political donation in connection with a land purchase deal - not a bribe as alleged by prosecutors. She admitted charges of forging documents in a separate case but denied using the money for personal gain...Mr Chen, her husband, is currently in jail awaiting trial on the same charges. He has denied the accusations, saying they are politically motivated. Last month Chen Chih-chung, the Chens' son, pleaded guilty to money laundering as did several other family members."

Are the Chens guilty? I don't know all the details of the charges, but I wouldn't be surprised if many of them are true. Will they receive fair trials? Probably not. Even though the likelihood of convictions is very high, the KMT 中國國民黨 is so determined to crush the opposition that is has run roughshod over the principle of an impartial judicial process in order to increase the likelihood that Chen, and those closest to him, will spend many years behind bars. Have these cases tarnished the image of the opposition DPP 民主進步黨? Definitely. The party is finding it very difficult to shake off its association with Chen, and is thus being hamstrung in its efforts to create a viable alternative to the KMT, and the latter's increasing steps towards linking Taiwan with China. Does any of this come as a surprise? It shouldn't. While it can't be described as being as at Third World-levels, corruption is rife here, especially in political circles, and touches politicians of all political stripes.

Do I want to stick around to see what eventually happens? Um...Hello? AIT 美國在台協會? How do I go about applying for a green card for my Taiwanese wife?

Friday, February 6, 2009

Back in Taiwan, unfortunately 台湾に戻ってしまった

We're back in Taiwan after a two-week visit to the United States to see my family. I'm feeling the effects of the jet lag (we got home from the airport last night/this morning at 1:30, and I didn't get to bed until around 3:30), which makes coherent writing a challenge at this moment. However, I can say that it was great to see and spend time with my family again. For my daughter, it was a chance to enjoy time with her grandparents after more than a year apart, as well as a chance to get herself immersed in an English-speaking environment. It was also nice to get away from the noise, dirt and all-around ugliness that characterizes daily life in Taiwan, but all good things must come to an end, and so I'm back, and not looking forward to returning to a life of cram schools and scooter trips. Sigh...

A few photographs of our time in Washington:

The day we landed at Sea-Tac Airport was also the date of Amber's third birthday. The following day, we had a little party to celebrate the event. What's the point of having grandparents if they can't spoil you with lots of presents?


Despite the generally chilly weather in the Seattle area, we tried to get Amber outside as much as possible. The cold didn't seem to bother her much (Amber's first question after we arrived in the US was "What happened to the trees?", referring to the lack of leaves).


In addition to her grandparents, there were other members of the family for Amber to catch up with, such as her cousin James, uncle Joe, aunt Karen, cousin Jamie and Jamie's husband Tyler.


On one brilliant day, the three of us plus my dad took the car ferry from Bremerton to Seattle, then drove up to the Snoqualmie Pass (3022 ft./921 m). The temperature there may have been only 19F (-7C), but it didn't feel very cold, and Amber got to experience snow for the first time.


There was also some snow in Bremerton on a couple of occasions, though that didn't stop the birds from searching for food in the backyard.


Snowy Scene

On another day, Pamela, Amber and I rode the ferry again to Seattle, where we visited Pike Place Market and the Uwajimaya supermarket and Kinokuniya Bookstore in the International District.

 

One particularly chilly afternoon was spent at the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium in Tacoma. Amber, nonetheless, got a kick out of seeing all the different animals (the puffins were her favorite), while her parents enjoyed the clear view of Mount Rainier off in the distance.


I took Amber out for a walk on a local trail...


...while Pamela joined us the next morning for a stroll along another trail in the area.


A last look at Mt. Rainier from the airport

成田国際空港で

Monday, January 19, 2009

I'll vouch for that!


Today was Voucher Day, when the government of Taiwan began distributing NT3600 ($110 or ¥9800) in consumer vouchers in an attempt to get people spending and thus, hopefully, providing some much-needed stimulus to an economy that has been heading in the wrong direction since early last year. The vouchers have been issued to every R.O.C. 中華民國 citizen regardless of age (so my wife and daughter both received one), and after some initial confusion and policy switches when the program was first announced a couple of months ago, to spouses of R.O.C. citizens, which means I was able to get my hands on the free cash as well. Despite fears of long lines at the distribution centers, we had no delays at all - my brother-in-law picked up Pamela's and Amber's, while my wife got mine for me in just a matter of minutes (the fact that it was in the middle of the afternoon probably had a lot to do with that!).

The voucher packet contains six NT500 and three NT200 vouchers, and come in a "lucky" red envelope with a Lunar New Year's 春節 greeting from the government. They can be used just about anywhere to buy virtually anything. Some of my students are planning to use theirs on daily necessities, while others are going to pool them together with their family members' to buy big-ticket items like flat-screen TV's and dining room tables. The catch is that you're not able to put them into bank accounts - they are meant to be spent, and must be used by September. We haven't decided yet how to utilize our NT10,800 gift, and will put off doing so until after we get back from a visit to the States early next month.

Will the consumer vouchers work the way the government hopes? They'd better - including printing and distribution costs, the total runs to NT4200 ($125 or ¥11,400) each for roughly 23 million people. That creates quite a debt load to pass on to the next generation, especially when the government also intends to spend billions on a number of infrastructure (aka "pork barrel construction") projects designed to further cover this island in cement (while still leaving its residents with water that can't be drunk straight from the tap or toilets that can't handle tissue paper). Alex Kerr should have visited Taiwan first before writing "Dogs and Demons".

The BBC has an article about the voucher program on its website.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Behind the scenes


In the fields behind my apartment complex, the rapeseed flowers are at their peak. Once they're picked, the seeds for the next rice crop will be planted.

Friday, January 16, 2009

The way it should be (according to Gregory Clark)

Things had been quiet on the Gregory Clark front in recent months. Too quiet it seems, as the headline for his latest commentary in the Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ, "Antiforeigner discrimination is a right for Japanese people", unfortunately lays it out all too clearly. You should read the entire article to see for yourself how the minds of some individuals work, but here are a few choice excerpts:

"'Japan girai' 日本嫌い — dislike of Japan — is an allergy that seems to afflict many Westerners here."

Right off the bat, Greg dismisses anyone who has any kind of complaint with some of the ways things are done in Japan. Sure, there are a lot of whiners among the resident foreigner population who would probably be happier living somewhere else (as you would find in any country), but there are also a great number of people who love Japan, and offer constructive criticism as a way to improve things for the general good. Greg doesn't see it this way, however. Instead, he yearns for those years not so long past when anyone who dared question certain aspects of Japanese society were quickly accused of "Japan bashing" ジャパンバッシング  in a clumsy attempt to avoid dealing with both the questions being raised and the person(s) raising them. Japan - love or leave it, right Greg?

"Normally these people do little harm. In their gaijin ghettoes they complain about everything from landlords reluctant to rent to foreigners (ignoring justified landlord fear of the damage foreigners can cause) to use of the word 'gaijin' 外人 (forgetting the way some English speakers use the shorter and sometimes discriminatory word 'foreigner' rather than 'foreign national.')"

First of all, the words "gaijin ghettos" conjure up images of Hiroo 広尾 and Nishi-Azabu 西麻布, and I find it hard to believe the corporate ex-pats living there had trouble securing accommodation. I, on the other hand, found apartment hunting to be a frustrating experience, and I was usually the only Westerner living in the neighborhoods where I eventually settled.

Secondly, what damage can foreigners cause that Japanese can't? Do we urinate on the tatami mats like pets not yet housebroken? I've known of foreigners with Japanese spouses, who presumably could properly train their barbarian mates, still being rejected in the search for somewhere to live simply because they were not Japanese. In Greg's view, if one foreigner causes problems in their rented abode, all non-Japanese should be damned. But plenty of Japanese people create a lot of problems for landlords as well, yet they are not turned away. To put things in an Australian context (Greg is from the Land Down Under), if one Aborigine trashed his/her apartment, would that mean the white landlord would be justified in only renting out their property to other white people (all the while overlooking the problems they have to deal with from their fellow Caucasians)?

Finally, for someone who criticizes others for hypocritically using the word "foreigner", it's all over his own damn commentary!

"Recently they have revived the story of how they bravely abolished antiforeigner discrimination from bathhouses in the port town of Otaru 小樽 in Hokkaido 北海道. Since I was closely involved, allow me to throw some extra light on that affair. An onsen manager who allegedly had earlier been driven to near bankruptcy by badly behaved Russian sailors had decided this time to bar all foreigners from his new enterprise. The activist then filed a suit for mental distress and won ¥3 million in damages. In the Zeit Gist and letter pages of (the Japan Times), some have criticized these excessively zealous moves by the activists. These critics in turn have been labeled as favoring Nazi-style discrimination and mob rule."

What Greg fails to tell us here, though he is clearly aware of the fact through his heated correspondence with the litigants in the past, is that at least one of those "foreigners" was a naturalized Japanese citizen! What Greg is suggesting, though he doesn't want to clearly come out and say it, is that even with a Japanese passport and family register 戸籍, if you don't look the part, it's OK to deny you the same rights as your fellow citizens.

"Otaru had been playing host to well over 20,000 Russian sailors a year, most arriving in small rust-bucket ships to deliver timber and pick up secondhand cars. I visited the wharves there, and as proof I harbor no anti-Russian feeling let me add that I speak Russian and enjoyed talking to these earthy, rough-hewn people in their own language. Even so, the idea of them demanding freedom to walk into any onsen bathhouse of their choice, especially to a high-class onsen like Yunohana 湯の原温泉, is absurd."

Greg really lays on the patronizing condescension here. And I thought one reason people emigrated to Australia in the first place was to get away from the English class system! This paragraph speaks for itself.

"The antidiscrimination activists say bathhouse managers can solve all problems by barring drunken sailors. But how do you apply a drunk test? And how do you throw out a drunk who has his foot in the door? Besides, drunken behavior is not the only bathhouse problem with these Otaru sailors. I can understand well why regular Japanese customers seeking the quiet Japanese-style camaraderie of the traditional Japanese bathhouse would want to flee an invasion of noisy, bathhouse-ignorant foreigners. And since it is not possible to bar only Russians, barring all foreigners is the only answer."

I guess there's just no way a gaijin could understand "the quiet Japanese-style camaraderie of the traditional Japanese bathhouse". Gregory Clark included, of course.

A few years ago, there were a couple of incidents of Japanese tourists carving their initials on the walls of old European cathedrals. Since it was not possible to bar only Japanese, would it have been OK for the authorities to have barred all Asians? Would that have been the only answer, Greg?

"The antidiscrimination people point to Japan's acceptance of a U.N. edict banning discrimination on the basis of race. But that edict is broken every time any U.S. organization obeys the affirmative action law demanding preference for blacks and other minorities. Without it, U.S. President-elect Barack Obama would probably not be where he is today."

I'm not sure the USA even signed on to the edict described above, but that is irrelevant, as is Greg's comparison. It doesn't matter what other countries do - Japan accepted the anti-discrimination edict, and is supposed to follow through on its promise.

Greg also completely misses the boat on the history of anti-discrimination efforts in the USA. What laid the groundwork of Obama's victory were the efforts of countless activists from the 1950's and '60's, and the enactment of the Civil Rights Acts barring racial discrimination in public places, schools and employment, voting, housing and so on (and the abilities and intelligence of Obama himself). And if the result of all this activism was the election of Barack Obama, is that something to be feared? What talented individuals in Japanese society would be able to move up the ladder if there were similar laws in Japan? What does Greg think of someone like Marutei Tsurunen ツルネン・マルテイ? Would it be alright to bar him from a bathhouse?

"Sometimes their activism goes beyond even the absurd. Japan has long had a real problem of clever Chinese and Korean criminals taking advantage of Japan's lack of theft awareness to pick the locks and pockets of unsuspecting citizens. But when the authorities try to raise this problem, they too are accused of antiforeigner discrimination. Even companies advertising pick-proof locks are labeled as discriminators if they mention the Chinese lock-picking problem. Obviously Japan needs precautions against these theft experts. Many, myself included, dislike the fingerprinting of foreigners at airports. But this too is needed to stop criminally minded foreigners from re-entering Japan after they have been caught and expelled. If anything the authorities are too lenient with these people. (Let me add that I also have no anti-China feeling; I speak Chinese too.)"

Let's give Greg some credit here. At least he doesn't feel that white folks (and black people too, I presume) should be the only ones made to feel like second-class people - it's other Asians as well that have had the unfortunate luck of not being born Japanese. Yes, Greg, there are criminals active in Japan who come from China and Korea. But there are also a great many Chinese and Korean visitors (and residents) who would never involve themselves in such activities. And do you mean to tell us Japanese don't do these things either?

And yet another contradiction escapes Greg's notice. If he doesn't have any anti-Russian or anti-Chinese feelings because he can speak the languages, then does that mean all foreigners who can speak Japanese don't harbor any anti-Japanese feelings? If so, then those people can't be accused of being of having the "Japan-girai" allergy, right?

"It is time we admitted that at times the Japanese have the right to discriminate against some foreigners. If they do not, and Japan ends up like our padlocked, mutually suspicious Western societies, we will all be the losers."

As Greg sees it, Western societies made the mistake of trying to create societies where all their residents would be treated equally (it has yet to work that way, of course, but at least they're making the effort). We would all be better off if everyone knew their proper place in the greater social order.

Wouldn't we, Greg?