Sunday, September 29, 2013

Japan and Taiwan: Days 5 and 6 - Rain, rain go away

I knew there wasn't going to be much to do the Sunday after I'd completed the hike up to Gassan-jinja Shrine 月山神社 and down to Yudonosan-jinja Shrine 湯殿山神社. In fact, based on what happened back in 2006, when a typhoon washed out my plans to complete the Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 trifecta, I factored in an extra day in Tsuruoka 鶴岡 in the event the weather would prove to be uncooperative again. As things turned out, the weather on Saturday was fine, and I completed the hike as planned, which meant I now had a Sunday that needed to be filled. I had hoped the temperature would be warm enough to go for a swim in the Sea of Japan 日本海, and had even packed a swimsuit, but Typhoon 18 was approaching the western part of Honshū 本州 and it would rain for much of the day in the northeast where I was staying. As it turned out, things were going to get much worse, but as I woke up on Sunday morning, I had to figure out what I was going to do that day.

Thinking things over during breakfast, I decided to take a bus to a village called Ōami 大網, where there were two Buddhist temples, both of which contained "living Buddhas", mummified bodies of ascetic monks. I had visited one of the temples when I was in Tsuruoka seven years ago, and so I thought I'd have a look at the other one. At the bus stop in front of Tsuruoka Station 鶴岡駅, I somehow managed to miss the bus, as it pulled up, opened it doors, closed them and then sped off before I could react. Not sure of what had just happened, I walked over to the tourist information office, where, after a long discussion between the two staff there over various bus schedules, it was decided that I wouldn't have enough time in Oami to see the mummy if I caught a later bus, but that there was another mummy right there in Tsuruoka that I wasn't aware of! This would be the first of many changes in plans over the course of this day and the next.


My lunch at a restaurant across the street from station. The staff suggested I eat there while waiting for the bus that would take me to Nangaku-ji Temple 南岳時.


Nangaku-ji. The temple itself was nothing out of the ordinary, but propped up on an altar in the basement was a mīra ミイラ, a Buddhist priest who, as the tourist office brochure put it, "as expression of his faith, entered a pit and gradually reduced his intake of food and water to zero." The result would be naturally mummified remains that would be presented as a testament to the priest's faith. This practice, known as sokushimbutsu 即身仏, was outlawed in the mid-19th century, and the remains of a half-dozen "living Buddhas" can be found today in several temples in Yamagata Prefecture 山形県. Photography wasn't allowed, so I found this photo of the miira online:


Leaving Nangaku-ji in the rain, I had the choice of waiting for the next bus back to the station, or of returning on foot. I chose the latter option, and almost immediately regretted it as my sandals soon became thoroughly soaked. Still, I plowed on, wondering what else there was to see in Tsuruoka. The city's main tourist sight is a collection of Meiji period 明治時代 buildings called the Chidō Hakubutsukan 致道博物館, but I'd already visited it the last time I was in town. So, free guide map in hand, I decided instead to check out some of what I didn't see here back in 2006.



Shōnai-jinja Shrine 庄内神社 was only of mild interest, but it least it provided some cover from the still-pouring rain.


The building next door to Shonai-jinja was of much greater interest. Taihōkan 大寶館 was a beautifully-preserved building, completed in 1915 as a local assembly hall.



Taihokan's interior is now a museum dedicated to local persons of note, none of whom I'd ever heard of but was impressed with the hairstyle of at least one of them. 



By this point the rain had pretty much stopped, and things would stay that way for the rest of the day. I next walked over to check out this Catholic church, built by French missionaries in 1903 and containing "the only black statue of Mother Mary in Japan in the chapel." I remembered passing by the church the last time I was in town, and was glad I didn't give it a pass again this time.



Tsuruoka was proving to be more interesting than I'd expected, as I walked from the church to the former Kazama Family Residence Heishindō. According to my guide map, "Kazama, a cloth merchant, became the richest merchant and landowner in Tsuruoka. This structure was built as both a house and a store in 1896, and still retains many characteristics unique to the merchant lifestyle." A pretty apt description as I wandered around the large home, checking out the various rooms and furnishings. 



The ticket to the Heishindo 丙申堂 also included admission to the Shakadō 釈迦堂, another traditional house that had been converted into a small Buddhist temple. It was noted locally for its small garden in the rear.


As things turned out, I was able to keep myself occupied on this "open day" in my itinerary, and I celebrated with dinner at one of those conveyor-belt sushi restaurants 回転寿司, followed by a couple of beers at a local bar.

Monday the 16th. My original plan for this day was to take full advantage of my JR Pass by first getting up early, checking out of my hotel and catching a local train around 7:15 for a two-hour ride or so to the city of Akita 秋田, where I would then stash my bags in a locker at the train station. Following a quick look around, I would then retrieve my things and get on the bullet train 新幹線 to Morioka 盛岡. There, I would do the same thing, before taking one more train to my final destination, Tōno 遠野, where I would stay in a minshuku 民宿 for the next two nights.

Watching the weather report on TV on Sunday, however, it was apparent that the Tōhoku region 東北地方 was not going to be spared the wrath of the oncoming typhoon's fury, and I decided it would be best to get from Tsuruoka to Tono as quickly as possible before transportation ground to a halt. So on Sunday evening, I made the necessary reservations. The new schedule had me going from Tsuruoka to Akita by a limited express train, changing to the bullet train for the leg to Morioka, before finally arriving in Tono in the late afternoon. I went to bed Sunday night knowing I could sleep in a bit and enjoy breakfast on the top floor of the hotel before checking out around ten.

Waking up on Monday, the weather was rainy, but it certainly didn't resemble a typhoon. I knew something was wrong, however, when, in this most punctual of societies, the limited express train was 18 minutes late in arriving. While in Taiwan this might not be too unusual, in Japan it's a sign that something serious is going on. The Sea of Japan was stormy as the train made its way out of Tsuruoka, and by the time we pulled into Akita, the rain had become horizontal and the wind was whipping up. Having missed my connection to Morioka, I quickly hurried over to the ticket office and reserved a seat on the next shinkansen heading toward Morioka. 


This was the sight that greeted me as I left the 緑の窓口, ticket and rail pass in hand. All trains had stopped running due to the typhoon, which was now making its way through Tohoku. I had a choice to make: stand around and wait to see when (and if) the trains would resume operations, or find a room in Akita for the night. I chose the latter. Following signs for the Hotel Metropolitan Akita ホテルメトロポリタン秋田, I made my way through an adjoining shopping center and found the front desk. It turned out there was room at the inn, so I made the reservation for that night, and asked them to book a room for me for the following evening, at their establishment in Morioka. Things were propitious all around, for not only did the Metropolitan provide a relatively classy room at a reasonable rate, it was part of the Japan Rail group, which meant that I was entitled to a discount by virtue of holding a JR Pass. 



Needless to say, it wasn't the most exciting of days. However, by virtue of the fact that the hotel, shopping center and train station were all adjoining, I never had to step outside and into Mother Nature's fury. On the other side of the station was another adjoining building that had an internet cafe on its second floor, so I was able to check my email and catch up on news while remaining dry. There were certainly much worse ways to ride out a typhoon, and I wasn't complaining.



The worst of the typhoon was over by the evening, and I capped off the day by enjoying a couple of microbrews 地ビール (Tazawako Beer 田沢湖ビール) at a restaurant on the second floor of the shopping center. A JR clerk assured me that the bullet trains would be running the next day, so I booked another seat on a Morioka-bound shinkansen and retired for the night.










Getting buggy

Having been away from my family for two weeks, selfishly enjoying myself in Japan and Taiwan, today was the day to reconnect with my daughter. Amber, fortunately, harbors no resentment of my annual solo vacations, though the prospect of getting presents from Dad when he comes home certainly helps to soothe any separation anxieties. As does the opportunity of getting up close and personal with some of nature's critters, so when I broached the idea of visiting Shàng​hǎi's 上海 Natural Wild Insect Kingdom 大自然野生昆虫馆 this morning, she immediately answered in the affirmative.

Having been told by my guidebooks not to expect much, the museum turned out to be a pleasant surprise. Yes, it's geared toward the little ones, but there's a good collection of animals (insects, in fact, are in the minority) and enough information in English to make a trip worthwhile. It's still best visited if you're a parent, but the bugs and reptiles on display managed to hold my interest for the couple of hours that we were there. But, then again, who could say "no" to a giant monitor or freshwater ray?


First things first: lunch, consisting of beef with rice, fried chicken and spring rolls. The 牛肉饭 was a little on the spicy side for my daughter, but the milk tea helped to keep the fire under reasonable control.


Outside the entrance, and obviously excited at the prospect of going inside


Feeding some ravenous carp and goldfish. The tank across from Amber held a large snapping turtle, not the kind you'd want to encounter if you were wading through an American creek or swamp.


A pair of Japanese rhinoceros beetles



A display showing how crickets have traditionally been kept as pets in China


One of the many frogs that can be seen at the museum


It wasn't all creepy things. Amber was happy to have the opportunity to feed some goats, guinea pigs and rabbits.


The play area was a hit with the kiddies, with stepping stones placed in a large but shallow tank of water that was stocked with small goldfish. Not to mention docile giant crabs.


After visiting the museum, we talk a walk over to the Huáng​pǔ River 黄埔江. Note the couple in the background having their wedding photos taken, a common sight on both sides of the river.






Japan and Taiwan: Day 4 - Mission accomplished

Tsuruoka as seen from my hotel window at around five in the morning on Saturday the 14th


About seven years ago, I arrived in Tsuruoka 鶴岡, a small city of around 140,000 souls located by the Sea of Japan 日本海 in rural Yamagata Prefecture 山形県. My intention was to do the Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 hike, covering three peaks associated with the Japanese mountain ascetics known as yamabushi 山伏. I tackled the first mountain, Haguro-san 羽黒山, without any problem, ascending the 2466 steps to the Shintō shrine 神社 in beautiful weather. The following day, however, an approaching typhoon put paid to my plans to attempt the hikes of the other two mountains, Gassan 月山 and Yudono-san 湯殿山, and, like General MacArthur, I vowed that day that I would return. I actually made plans to do just that in the summer of 2011, but the March 11 earthquake, tsunami and nuclear disaster that hammered Japan's Tōhoku region 東北地方 forced a change in schedule as well (I ended up going to Okinawa 沖縄 instead that summer).

Tsuruoka Station 鶴岡駅 at around six in the morning, on my way to the bus stop for the ride to Gassan


Finally, seven summers later, I've at last been able to complete the Dewa Sanzan hike. With China's week-long national day holiday upon us, some of my colleagues were wondering why I was taking time off from work in mid-September instead of now. The answer is that public transportation from Tsuruoka to the Gassan trailhead at Gassan Hachigōme 月山八合目 only runs from the start of July to mid-September, and my window of opportunity was fast closing. I arrived in Tsuruoka on Friday the 13th to find a typhoon approaching Japan, but the weather forecast for the following day looked promising (rain was predicted for Sunday the 15th), so I woke up early and caught the 6:02 am bus going to the trailhead. It was to be a long, grueling and alternately hot and chilly morning and afternoon, but after seven hours and 10 kilometers (six miles) I finally earned my yamabushi stripes.


At the start of the trail leading to the top of Gassan. It took a couple of hours by bus to get here, and, as you can see, the weather was perfect.


The official start of the trail is the Eighth Station, a few minutes uphill from the parking lot. The torii 鳥居 arch signifies the spiritual importance of the mountains.



The significance of the rabbit statue was lost on me, but Jizō-sama 地蔵様 protects both travelers and the souls of dead children. For such reasons, I always pay my respects whenever I encounter his statue(s).


The first stage of the trail uphill passed through marshland. The hut in the background was where the above-mentioned torii was located.


The way up consisted of a very gradual ascent, in contrast to the later descent down to Yudonosan-jinja Shrine 湯殿山神社.


Scattered patches of ice in mid-September were a reminder why public transportation links were only in operation for a short time during the summer months. This area is buried under heavy snow in winter.


By the time I reached the 9th station, an hour or so into the hike, the fog had started to roll in. I soon went from being drenched in sweat to thanking myself for having the foresight to bring along a heavy sweater (though in the end I never actually donned it). 


Gassan is noted for its alpine flowers


Almost there...


After 2½ hours, I made it to Gassan-jinja Shrine 月山神社, which sits atop the mountain. Photography inside the shrine was prohibited, but I don't think the gods would be upset if I write about what went on after entering the premises. After paying ¥500 (about $5), a priest first purifies you by waving a paper banner over your head while reciting a prayer, then hands you a paper figurine. You rub the cutout over your head, shoulders and body, then place it into some water and enter the inner shrine compound. Following prayers and a circuit around the interior, you then make your way out of the shrine (but not before purchasing some amulets - I've amassed a small collection over the years).



1984 meters (6509 feet) above sea level. By the this point, the clouds were swallowing up Gassan-jinja. A few moments later the shrine couldn't be seen at all.


Halfway to Yudonosan-jinja. It had now taken me almost three hours to cover five kilometers (3.1 miles) uphill. How long could a 5K descent take? Four hours, as it turned out.


Ready for the downhill trek. Or so I thought...



The first stage of the descent was slow-going, owing to the steepness, the large stones that had to be stepped over carefully and the large numbers of hikers on their way up to Gassan. The scenery more than made up for it.


The trail ahead of me soon branched off to a ski lift, which explained why there were so many going in the opposite direction (i.e. hiking up to Gassan).


Looking back toward Gassan, the shrine was no longer visible. No turning back now...


Soon after passing the branch leading off to the ski lift, the trail widened out and leveled off, and it appeared it was going to be as gentle a trip down to Yudonosan-jinja as the ascent was up to Gassan-jinja. It wasn't long, however, before the trail split. The easy-looking trail continued uphill, but the sign indicating the way to Yudono-san pointed to the right and a rough-looking, narrow path barely clinging to the side of the mountain. A group of middle-aged female hikers, after confirming that I knew in which direction I was headed, told me to 気をつけて - "Be careful". They were right.



The trail soon veered away from the mountainside, but the steep, stony path only got harder. Each step was a potential sprained ankle or retorn knee ligament. At one point, the side of the trail gave out from under me, and I almost fell into the thick brush. It soon became apparent why there were only a few hikers on this trail, contrary to the impression I had gotten from reading guidebooks.


The scenery, of course, was never anything but incredible. The ridge in the distance was part of the same range as Gassan, showing how far I'd come.



A video I shot while taking a short break. The area of road that can be seen far down in the distance was the site of Yudonosan-jinja, showing how far I still had to go.



Just when I thought things couldn’t get any more difficult, I came across the ladders. These were a series of ladders bolted into the side of the mountain. Rusting and wobbly in many places, for someone as afraid of heights as I am, getting down these things was a challenge. My feet were shaking from fear as I gingerly climbed down, occasionally having to sidle over to another ladder and often finding it difficult to get a secure foothold. At times I would need to hold on to chains that had also been put in place. It was with a great sense of relief when I alit from the last of the ladders…
 
…only to then have to carefully continue downhill on a streambed, filled with mossy and/or slippery stones. I’ve always been unbalanced and not just mentally, and gravity did its hardest to pull me down, but somehow I eventually made it to the end of the trail relatively unscathed, four hours after leaving Gassan-jinja. 


If I had to choose a religion to follow, it would probably be Shintō 神道, and the idea that a god (or gods) reside in natural objects. 


At last, Yudonosan-jinja. I’ve been to hundreds of Shinto shrines over the years, but none like this one. First off, all visitors had to remove their shoes and enter the precinct barefoot, the antithesis of going into a typical Japanese home. Following the ritual purification (the same as on Gassan), I proceeded into the inner grounds. Here, there were no buildings or halls containing symbols of the gods. Instead, the objection of veneration was a large orange boulder. Everyone had to climb up, and then down, the large rock, which was steaming from the hot water cascading over it (and which felt great after the long trek). The visit ended with a long, relaxing foot bath, before donning my sweaty socks and hiking shoes. As with Gassan-jinja, photography wasn’t permitted, so I had to sneak the shot above. The boulder can be glimpsed on the right.


The large red torii at the entrance to Yudonosan-jinja. Note the oversized straw sandal in the background, denoting this as a place of pilgrimage.  


A well-earned beer enjoyed while waiting for the bus back to Tsuruoka. The small dish held a complimentary serving of myōga 茗荷, or Japanese ginger. Interestingly, the word with different characters 冥加 can mean "divine protection or blessing", thus making it a highly appropriate snack, for I have been born (Haguro-san), died (Gassan) and reborn (Yudono-san).


My dinner at the end of the day, yakiniku raisu 焼肉ライス. Like many others I met in this part of Japan, the very fact that I could speak a few words of Japanese was of great relief to the elderly couple running the diner.

Back around 1991/92, I prepared a list of noted Shinto shrines and sacred mountains in Japan, and promised myself that I would eventually visit all of them. They ranged from the gateway to the other world in the north of Honshū Island 本州 that is Osorezan 恐山, to the cave at Takachiho 高千穂 on the southern island of Kyūshū 九州, where the sun goddess Amaterasu 天照 hid, plunging the world into darkness, until she was lured out by an erotic dance performed by one of the lesser goddesses (gotta love Japanese mythology). It’s taken 21 or 22 years, but with the completion of the Dewa Sanzan hike (which itself required seven years), I’ve finally visited them all.

So where do I go from here?