Thursday, November 12, 2015

Feeling monumental

You know it, I know it, we all know it: the Washington Monument needs no introduction. Still, a few brief facts are in order: the cornerstone was first laid on July 4, 1848, but due to construction and political problems, it remained stuck at a mere 152 feet (46 meters) for more than two decades (Mark Twain called it a "factory chimney with the top broken off"). After the Civil War, Congress authorized funding to complete the monument, but it still took until the end of 1884 for the structure to reach completion. It's still the world's tallest stone structure and tallest obelisk, reaching a height of 555 feet (169 meters). The monument measures 55 feet (17 meters) wide at the base, tapers off to 34 feet (10 meters) at the top and is capped by a small aluminum pyramid. And until this Veterans Day, my family and I had never been inside it:


Thanks to damage from the magnitude 5.8 2011 Virginia Earthquake,  the monument was closed the first time we were in the Washington, D.C. area. Repairs were completed and the monument was reopened to visitors in May 2014, while we were in Shanghai. Ever since, riding the elevators to the top of the monument was at the top of our list of things to do once we returned to northern Virginia. I first looked into reserving tickets online more than a month ago, but due to high demand combined with our time constraints (we're pretty much only free on Saturdays and national holidays), the earliest available date I could find that fit our schedule was Veterans Day. Fortunately, November 11 turned out to be a beautiful day, with clear skies and temperatures in the mid-60's F (mid-to-late teens C). The views from the top (at 500 feet/152 meters) turned out to be well worth the long wait.

Looking east, we could look down the National Mall (currently undergoing renovations scheduled to last until December 2016) to the Capitol (itself undergoing renovation work). Visible on the left are the National Museum of Natural History and the National Gallery of Art. On the right, you can see the Smithsonian Institution Building ("The Castle"), the Hirshhorn Museum, the National Air and Space Museum and the National Museum of the American Indian:


A closer view of the Capitol Building, flanked by the Supreme Court Building on the left and the Library of Congress on the right (and RFK Stadium hovering in the background):


Zooming in on the Smithsonian Castle and the Freer Gallery of Art:


To the north, we could see the White House and the Ellipse:



Turning west, we had a great view of the National World War II Memorial, the Reflecting Pool and, of course, the Lincoln Memorial:



Finally, the southern windows expose the Tidal Basin and the Jefferson Memorial:



The floor below the observatory contains a few exhibits, giving you something to look while waiting for the elevator ride back to ground level:




If you could only choose one structure to symbolize Washington, D.C., a strong case could be made for the Washington Monument. Visiting it today was further proof (if any were needed) that Washington is an amazing city to experience. If you haven't seen the obelisk and would like to, do as we did and book your tickets online, for a small fee; free tickets are available at the Monument itself, but they go quickly.

Having crossed the Washington Monument off of our collective District of Columbia bucket list, it was time to find somewhere to have lunch. From past experience, the cafeterias inside the various museums along the National Mall are best avoided (mediocre food at high prices), so we strolled north to Pennsylvania Avenue. In a nod to this country's colonial beginnings, we settled on the British-themed Elephant & Castle pub and restaurant, where I lunched on stuffed Yorkshire pudding, washed down with a DC Brau Public Pale Ale:



Across the street from the restaurant stands the Old Post Office Pavilion, a magnificent Romanesque Revival structure that's unfortunately being redeveloped into a luxury hotel by none other than Donald Trump. We visited it three years ago: 


We returned to the Mall and the Sōtatsu: Making Waves exhibition at the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery. Tawaraya Sōtatsu 俵屋宗達 was a 17th century Japanese artist and co-founder of the Rinpa 琳派 school of Japanese painting. The Sackler Gallery is currently showing the first retrospective of Sōtatsu's work outside of Japan. Noted for his painted folding screens, my daughter described the banner outside the gallery as being a "screen shot":


Photography wasn't permitted inside the Sōtatsu exhibit, but I did manage to surreptitiously take this screen shot:


Inspired by Sōtatsu, Amber created her own folding fan art:



On the way to the Making Waves exhibition, we passed through this deconstruction of James McNeill Whistler's The Peacock Room. Part of an immersive installation by painter Darren Waterston called Filthy Lucre, Peacock Room: REMIX features broken pottery pieces and paintings of peacocks eviscerating each other:


My daughter was simultaneously fascinated and horrified by the room, going in several times to have a look. She was relieved later when we went upstairs to the Freer Gallery to see the actual Peacock Room:


This ceiling-to-floor installation consists of the word "monkey" rendered in twenty-one languages:


Amber and I finished our afternoon on the Mall by going for a ride on historic Carousel on the Mall, while my wife took a break on a nearby bench. It was by far the fastest Merry Go Round I've ever experienced. A plaque on the gate explained its small role in the civil rights struggles of the Sixties:




Washington on a crisp, clear autumn afternoon - is there any better time to be in the District? OK, perhaps spring (when the cherry blossoms bloom), but at least now there are fewer people to cope with.


 












Monday, November 9, 2015

Back in the District Again

The Chinese Communist Party's English-language mouthpiece "China Daily" stands uncomfortably close to the "Epoch Times", put out by the Falun Gong

It's been two months now since we returned to the Washington, D.C. area, but it wasn't until today that we ventured as a family back into the District. Truth be told, considering all the sightseeing we did the last time we were here, we thought there wouldn't be much left in Washington for us to visit. Initially we'd planned this weekend to go hiking somewhere in Maryland or Virginia, but yesterday's heavy rainfall suggested that would be an exercise in mud accumulation. Today's clear blue skies were too good to pass up, however, so it was decided a nice walk along the National Mall would be just the right way to enjoy a crisp, autumn Sunday. 

We began our stroll at the Capitol, where the iconic dome is covered in scaffolding as the structure undergoes some much-needed restoration work:



We crossed the plaza, walked around the north wing of the Capitol and made our way down Capitol Hill to Olmsted's Summerhouse (aka the Grotto), built over a natural spring:


Peace Circle is the locale for Franklin Simmons' Peace Monument, with its depiction of Grief crying on History's shoulder over the Northern sailors who were killed in the Civil War: 


The view of the West Front of the Capitol, where presidents have been sworn in on Inauguration Day since 1981:


Looking past the Capitol Reflecting Pool toward the Washington Monument:


Stopping in at the U.S. Botanical Garden:




Down Maryland Avenue from the botanical garden is the National Museum of the American Indian. Due to time constraints, we didn't go inside today. Also, I've heard poor reviews of the museum, and the building's exterior is hardly exciting. Still, we may check it out before we're due to depart next spring:


My daughter was excited about the to-scale representation of the planets in our solar system that stretches along Jefferson Drive in front of the National Air and Space Museum. We started with the Sun and got as far as Uranus before crossing the street:


We walked to the other side of the Mall and the National Gallery of Art's Sculpture Garden:


Changing perspectives:


Then it was back to Jefferson Drive and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, taking a walk around the sunken sculpture garden. The grounds contain 60 or so works, including Auguste Rodin's Crouching Woman and Yoko Ono's Wish Tree:



We bypassed the main building, instead cutting through the courtyard to Independence Avenue to enter the Mary Livingston Ripley Garden:




The solitary path led us back out to Jefferson Drive and the small Kathrine Dulin Folger Rose Garden...:


...before entering the Enid A. Haupt Garden, located behind the famous Smithsonian Castle: 



A noted feature of the garden is the Moongate Garden, supposedly inspired by the Temple of Heaven in Beijing: 


From the Castle it's a short walk down Jefferson Drive to the Washington Monument. We didn't linger too long here as we have tickets to go inside the obelisk this upcoming Veterans Day holiday, but I did walk around the structure to take in the views of the White House, Jefferson Memorial, Lincoln Memorial and Reflecting Pool:




Walking downhill from the monument, we passed through the World War II Memorial, which we had previously visited back in June 2012. The green wall of the memorial contains 4048 golden stars, one for every 100 Americans killed in the war:


At the algae-plagued Constitution Gardens pond, Amber fed some bread to the resident ducks and geese:



From the pond, the footpath brought us to the Vietnam Women's Memorial, while the Vietnam Veterans Memorial could be seen off to the right:



Our walk fittingly ended at the Lincoln Memorial:



One thing I hadn't noticed on our previous visits were the words marking the spot where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. stood at he gave his "I Have a Dream" speech on August 28, 1963:


No matter how many times I've been to the memorial,  Daniel Chester French's statue never fails to impress:


Just as she did the first time we came here, my daughter had her picture taken with a police horse:


Washington remains one of the most magnificent capital cities in the world, its noted museums and monuments so familiar and yet still amazing. If you've never been here, you owe yourself a visit. Let me know if you're going to be in town...