Catching Up with Steve in Tanshi

This last Sunday of 2007 turned out to be bright, but chilly. Winter, it seems, has finally arrived (as I write this, the thermometer in our bedroom reads 12 degrees centigrade, or 54 F. This might not sound very cold, but Taiwanese apartments are all concrete and tile.) I spent a few hours in the late morning and early afternoon catching up with Steve, who despite living not far away in T'aichung (Taijhong) 台中, is someone I don't get to see as often as I should. I met up with him in front a McDonald's in Taichung, and drove from there to T'antzu (Tanjih) 潭子, a rural town of about 100,000 people (!) sandwiched between Taichung and Fengyuan (Fongyuan) 豊原. Our plan was to see the sights of Tantzu while catching up on recent developments in our respective lives, but it quickly became apparent that there isn't a helluva lot to see there, and as things turned out, the only spot we visited was a temple, the T'anshui (Tanshuei) Pavilion 潭水亭. Dating from 1801 (though the buildings are of more recent vintage), it's fairly representative of what you find in Taiwan, and not worth making any special efforts to see. Afterwards, we returned to Taichung (via a quick stop at the Taichung Intercontinental Baseball Stadium 臺中市洲際棒球場). It was far from an exciting day, but it was still great to see an old friend again.

 

(Upcoming legislative elections explain the campaign truck parked out front)

A Christmas in Toyohara クリスマスの日

So this is Christmas...in a small city in the center of Taiwan. December 25 is not a national holiday, so people went to school and work as usual in Fengyuan (Fongyuan) 豊原, but this resident foreigner was able to take the day off to celebrate with his family, thanks to an understanding cram school 塾 owner.

Christmas began with my daughter opening up her presents, beginning with the stocking stuffers, and progressing to the presents next to (not under) our small artificial Christmas tree. The stocking included Amber's first doll, imaginatively called "My First Little Doll", while out in the living room she came face-to-face with the goodies that Santa had left behind, namely a tricycle and a large box of plastic building blocks. Our little 波ちゃん is still too young to grasp the concept of Christmas, but compared to last year (when she seemed bewildered by the all the goings-on during her first Christmas), she was very excited, and kept saying "Wow" while looking over her gifts.

The weather today was gorgeous, with clear skies and warm (but not hot) temperatures, so after opening the presents, the three of us went to a park near our apartment building to let Amber give the tricycle its first real-world workout. After watching our little girl have a lot of fun, both on the bike and on the playground slides, we went to a restaurant serving turkey rice to have lunch. It may not be the same as having a turkey for Christmas dinner, but one has to adapt the best one can when in a foreign land.

After lunch, we returned home so Amber could take her afternoon nap. With the day free of any work commitments, and the weather still holding up, I decided to get in a little exercise. Following a short hike on one of the trails in the hills above Chung-cheng (Jhong-jheng) Park 中正公園, I took a walk up the road to the remains of what appear to have been some kind of activity center, though my wife has no clue as to what purposes the abandoned structures once served. It also isn't clear whether the complex went under as a result of red ink, the September 21, 1999 Chi-Chi (Ji-Ji) Earthquake 921大地震, or a combination of both. The bathrooms, in any event, didn't survive the tremors from the looks of things.

We ended this Christmas in the evening by taking a walk to the I & S Cafe, a local Western-style eatery, where I had...turkey with cranberry sauce! It may not have been the same as celebrating Christmas back home, but I feel pretty good about the day nonetheless. Happy Holidays everyone!

 

メリークリスマス!

On the tour bus to Tansui and the zoo

Today was the day I finally bit the bullet and participated in a Taiwanese bus tour. The only reason I agreed to go on this one was the fact it was organized by some people in our apartment building, it would be a good chance for Amber to mix with other people, and it was free, for the most part. So I found myself getting up around 5 this morning, in order to have some breakfast and take a shower, before Amber, Pamela and I joined the group at 6:30. Three tour buses were waiting for us outside the local Family Mart ファミリーマート convenience store:

The excursion had been paid for with the money earned over the past year from selling the residents' bulky garbage (TV's, fridges, toilet fixtures and so on) 粗大ごみ to recyclers. In past years, the money had been spent on holding a Christmas party in the apartment complex courtyard, but this year it was decided a group trip was in order. Apparently, the local candidate from the Democratic Progressive Party 民主進歩党 (legislative elections are scheduled for next month) got wind of all this, for he came on board to say a few words and shake some hands. The bus left at 7, and at 7:27 the karaoke カラオケ singing started, followed later by games (Pamela participated in one incomprehensible activity, and came away with a Tarepanda たれぱんだ). Fortunately, no one asked me to sing or play, and I was content to read the newspaper on the drive up. I had taken a tour bus in Japan once. The tour guide on that trip did provide some commentary, and sang a traditional folk song at one point, but for the most part the passengers were left alone to enjoy the scenery or talk amongst themselves. I guess in Taiwan there needs to be something going on every second to keep people interested. Heaven forbid you would want them to get lost in their thoughts.

Eventually the bus arrived in Pali (Bali) 八里, in T'aipei (Taibei) County 台北県, where we took a boat for the short trip across the river to Tamsui (Tanshui/Danshuei) 淡水. Looking back towards Pali, the view was dominated by the mountain, Kuanyinshan (Guanyinshan) 観音山:

Once in Tamsui, we were given about 90 minutes to ourselves, and so proceeded to do what every Taiwanese tourist does when they visit there - gorge themselves on snacks. We're actually going to be staying for two nights in Tamsui in February, during the Lunar New Year 旧正月, so I'll write more about the town then.

We rejoined our group around noon, got back on the bus and drove off to our next destination, the Taipei Zoo 臺北市立動物園. The zoo began in 1914, when the Japanese colonial government bought a private zoological garden and turned it into a public park. Its present location in the Mucha (Mujha) 木柵 area dates back to 1968. As zoos go, Taipei's is one of the better ones I've visited. The animal enclosures are relatively spacious, and the mountain setting is attractive (though often rainy, with today being no exception). This being a Sunday, the zoo was also...a zoo, packed with families and couples. We would have enjoyed our time there more had Amber not started feeling the effects of having been awake since 6am, and became one very cranky almost-two year old. One thing that did impress our little one was the tiger display. A glass separation allowed her a close-up view of the tigers walking by:

I'll refrain for now from making harsh criticisms of certain Chinese males whose perceived need for help in the bedroom is one reason these magnificent creatures are fast disappearing from their natural habitats.

Around 4, it was time for everyone to get back on the buses for the trip back to Fengyuan (Fongyuan) 豊原. Along the way we made two stops that gave some idea of the extent of the tour bus industry in Taiwan. First, we pulled off the freeway in Tahsi (Dasi) 大渓 and stopped at a private rest area that appeared to be exclusively for the use of large buses like ours. The parking lot was packed solid with coaches, disgorging their passengers for the sole purposes of using the restroom (so crowded there were women lined up to use the stalls in the Men's room) and to buy souvenirs (namely, food). Then we stopped off for dinner in T'oufen (Toufen) 頭份, at a restaurant that appeared to accommodate only groups of tour bus passengers, judging from the mammoth dining halls and large, bus-choked parking lot. The food was OK, but the noise level was deafening - imagine eating in a restaurant where tour group leaders have to use bullhorns to make themselves to be heard.

After dinner, it was back on the bus, with more games but, to my great relief, no singing (instead we watched an アニメ on the video that, alas, had it's original Japanese soundtrack dubbed into Mandarin). We eventually got home at 8:30. A long day, but it wasn't the ordeal I had expected it to be. Everyone had a good time, and I appreciated the fact that we were given time to ourselves in both Tamsui and at the zoo, instead of being herded around by a flag-waving, bullhorn-blaring group leader. Will I do it again? That, I'm not so sure about. I guess it would depend on where we would go.

In the news ニュース

Saturday's Japan Times has an article by Max Hirsch ("Taiwan's presidential candidates jostle to win Japan's crucial backing") on the recent visits to Japan by Taiwan's two leading presidential candidates, Ma Ying-jeou 馬英九 (Ba Eikyū) of the Kuomintang (Guomindang) 中国国民党, and the Democratic Progressive Party's 民主進歩党 Frank Hsieh 謝長廷 (Sha Chōtei):

"Such is the significance of Japan to Taiwan's March 22 presidential election, (that) tacit support from the vital trading and strategic partner could make or break the diplomacy platforms of Ma and Hsieh. Japan has emerged as a key battleground in the political fight for Taiwan's top job as both top candidates scramble to curry favor with Tokyo."

Hirsch points out just why Japan is so important:

"Taiwan's growing interest in Japan is...obvious. Amid booming trade and tourism links, Japan's importance to Taiwan on security hit a zenith in 2005 when Tokyo joined Washington in referring to Taiwan as a 'common strategic objective' — a veiled reference to possible intervention by the U.S. and Japan in a Taiwan Strait conflict...Economic ties further explain why wooing Japan is more important in this election than in the past. Taiwan's trade with Japan totaled nearly $63 billion last year, a record high as Japan overtook the U.S. as Taiwan's second-largest trading partner, after China. Taiwan ranks fourth among Japan's trading partners and the two exchanged 2.3 million tourists last year, a record high."

All compelling reasons for both Ma and Hsieh to pay a visit. Ma spent three days in November in Kyōto 京都, Tōkyō 東京 and Yokohama 横浜, and secretly met with several cabinet officials, in an attempt to convince Japanese power brokers that he is not anti-Japanese. Hsieh, meanwhile, went to Kyōto and Tōkyō for four days from last Sunday. He held meetings with:

"...former Prime Minister Yoshirō Mori 森喜朗 and Diet member Takeo Hiranuma 平沼赳夫, who leads the Japan-Republic of China Diet Members' Consultative Council — two Taiwan-friendly political heavyweights who Ma also visited last month."

as well as a secret get-together with former Foreign Minister Tarō Asō 麻生太郎.

(Aso is far from China's favorite Japanese political figure, as his Wikipedia entry illustrates: "Kyōdō News 共同通信社 reported that he had said on February 4, 2006 'our predecessors did a good thing' regarding compulsory education implemented during Japan's colonization of Taiwan. Mainichi Daily News reported that on March 9, 2006 he referred to Taiwan as a 'law-abiding country', which drew strong protest from Beijing, which considers the island a part of China. His implication that Taiwan is an independent nation contradicts the agreement made between Japan and China in 1972 日本国政府と中華人民共和国政府の共同声明 that the Beijing rather than T'aipei (Taibei) 台北 government be considered the sole legal government of China and that Taiwan be considered 'an inalienable part of the territory of the People's Republic of China.' On December 21, 2005, he said China was 'a neighbor with one billion people equipped with nuclear bombs and has expanded its military outlays by double digits for 17 years in a row, and it is unclear as to what this is being used for. It is beginning to be a considerable threat.'")

Both candidates also made proposals while in Japan:

"Ma proposed a free-trade agreement with Tōkyō, while Hsieh proposed security guarantees along the lines of Washington's Taiwan Relations Act 台湾関係法...Both Ma and Hsieh pledged to maintain peace in the Taiwan Strait by seeking talks with Beijing and further opening to China economically. Hsieh one-upped his rival by speaking fluent Japanese, honed during his graduate studies at Kyōto University　京都大学...The main difference between the otherwise strikingly similar platforms of Ma and Hsieh lies in Ma's conciliatory approach to cross-strait relations. Taiwan will back off assertions of sovereignty to ratchet down tensions if Ma wins. In contrast, Hsieh struck a harder tone Tuesday while speaking to the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan (FCCJ): 'If China continues to use force to threaten Taiwan, we will not be the only victim . . . Japan . . . will be threatened as well.'"

One interesting point Hirsch makes in his article is that Japan's importance to Taiwan has seemingly come at the expense of the United States' influence over the island:

"That both leading candidates sent their running mates to the U.S. on goodwill visits before visiting Japan themselves undermines another piece of conventional wisdom — that Washington mainly arbitrates the island's geopolitical fate. Trade relations and campaign schedules now point to Washington's emerging in a back seat role in Taiwan's diplomatic circumstances as Japan looms larger in Taipei. 'Relations with the U.S. have always been our No. 1 priority. Japan was No. 2 — Tōkyō typically stayed behind the scenes,' said George Tsai, a political scientist at Taipei's Chinese Cultural University 私立中国文化大学. 'Now, Japan is taking a more active role in Taiwan affairs,' Tsai said, citing U.S. pressure on Japan to step up regional engagement as Washington focuses on the Mideast."

Considering the China-pleasing remarks that Bush Administration officials like Condoleezza Rice have been making recently regarding Taiwan, it's no wonder Taiwan's former colonial master is looking like a more reliable partner.

Hsint'ien (Sintian) 新田

Another free Tuesday morning, another walk in the mountains. Today it was back to the Hsintien area, where I started off by basically retracing the route I took with Michael Turton this past Saturday. The weather this morning kept up the recent streak of pleasantly warm temperatures and blue, cloudless skies.

The difference between today and Saturday was that at the point where Michael and I finished our descent and walked back to the parking lot, I crossed the road, where a set of wooden stairs led up into the hills, and began a new ascent. These steps led to a pavilion at the top, whereupon a dirt trail branched off from the paved footpath. Taking this branch led to a ridgetop trail that offered up great views of the valley down below. The scenery on the other side, looking towards Taiwan's Central Mountain range, was also good, but somewhat obscured by the morning haze and sunshine. Beyond a pink marker left by a local hiking group, the path rapidly deteriorated, becoming progressively overgrown and harder to navigate, until it finally petered out in a fruit orchard.

I wrapped up the hike by backtracking to the aforementioned pavilion, following the route down to the road, past some nice traditional architecture, and back to the parking lot where I started 2 1/2 hours and 9800 steps ago.

新田でハイキングをしていた

今朝新田で友達のマイケルといっしょにハイキングをした。もちろん楽しかった。

　

Walking the T'anyashen (Tanyashen) Bikeway (Part 1) 潭雅神サイクリングコース

The Tanyashen Bikeway is a bicycle trail that runs through the towns of T'antzu (Tanzih) 潭子, Shenkang (Shengang) 神岡 and Taya (Daya) 大雅, hence the name of the cycling course. A few years ago, my wife and I rented a couple of bikes and rode the length of the trail. Today, however, I decided to walk as much of the path as possible with the limited free time I had this morning.

Like the Houfeng (Houfong) 后豊 Bikeway, the Tanyashen course is laid along what were once the tracks of a Japanese-era railway. My starting point was just off of Ch'ungte (Chongde) 崇徳 Road, between the old stations of Tantzu and Shek'ou (Shekou) 社口. I began by taking the shorter route to Tantzu, which started off by passing by a handful of cafe-restaurants before turning into a pleasant tree-lined path.

At the end of the trail in Tantzu, it appears a tunnel is being constructed, suggesting that the bikeway is going to be expanded in the near future.

I then turned around and headed back in the direction of Shekou. Signs along the way indicate the distances between the old stations. As is commonplace in Taiwan, the route goes by numerous small factories, one of which was exposing itself to the outside world.

One great improvement that has been made to the trail since Pamela and I rode on it several years ago is the overpasses that cross over a couple of busy streets, such as this one spanning Chungte Road. It has made things much safer.

The scenery on the Shenkang and Taya sides of the trail is similar, though there are fewer trees along the bikeway to provide shade.

Like many industrialized nations, Taiwan has a labor problem. Namely, most people don't want to work at low-paying, strenuous factory jobs, so workers are brought in from Southeast Asia to do the work that Taiwanese shun. I passed by a couple of Thais (presumably) riding bikes on their way to a factory. I also saw several Filipinas (or perhaps Indonesians) taking breaks by the side of the bikeway. Many of these women work as caregivers in Taiwan. Some examples of Thai script, written on the outside of a factory wall and on the signboard of a building, underscored the presence of these foreign workers.

Compare the small, but charming, traditional house on the left, with the typical modern-day apartment building on the right. Most Taiwanese would probably choose the concrete block as a place to live. The old homes are fast disappearing. Someday, perhaps, the Taiwanese will wake up and realize what they have lost, but it will probably be too late, with only a few museum pieces remaining.

With just over a kilometer to go before the old Shenkang station, and within site of the high-speed rail tracks, my time was up, and I turn back and head for home. With a small, colorful Taoist temple 道観 to serve as a landmark, I intend on coming back this way soon to finish the route on foot.

A Sunday in Taichū 日曜日

Today the Kaminoge family spent a busy, but useful, Sunday in the teeming metropolis of T'aichung (Taijhong) 台中. It was a day that combined a bit of sightseeing with some Christmas shopping, and complemented with some good food, all on a sunny and warm afternoon. Not a bad way to end the weekend.

Our first stop was to visit Taichung's Confucius Temple 孔子廟. After finding a parking spot (never an easy task in central Taichung on a weekend), we started walking towards the temple when an unusual looking bird flew in front of us and came to rest on parked car:

Neither Pamela nor I have ever seen a bird like this in the middle of a large urban area. I have no idea what kind it is.

Soon after our encounter with the mysterious bird, we walked by the Martyrs' Shrine 忠烈祠. Taichung's version (like many in Taiwan, it was built on the site of a former Shintō 神道 shrine 神社), is only open on holidays, so we made a brief detour inside. Although the Main Hall was closed, the walk through the main gate and up to the Front Hall was nice.

The Confucius Temple is close by. Here's what 地球の歩き方台湾 has to say about it:

1726年建設の中国風建築の廟。主殿には孔子およびその弟子72人が祀られている。ここは台湾では珍しく宗式の建物で、その複雑で変化に富んだ構造と、繊細で美しい装飾は一見の価値あり。青、白、緑、赤、橙に塗られた色彩の調和がさわやかだ。新暦の9月29日は孔子誕生記念日で大変にぎわう。

Pamela and I had some of our wedding photos taken here, but this was Amber's first time to visit.

Lunch followed our visit to the shrine of the great Chinese sage. In my case it was a bowl of チャーシューメン which wasn't half bad.

After lunch, we walked over to the massive Chungyo Department Store 中友デパート.

 

Chungyo was packed, but I did manage to come away with a box of Raisin Bran and a couple of Australian and British ales from the new Jasons supermarket in the basement. This was followed up by a short walk down the street to Mister Donut ミスタードーナツ. So much for my attempt to eat less following our trip to the States, as I bought a Honey Dip, a Custard Cream, a Chocolate Cream and a Coffee Roll, and consumed them all before the day was out.

Amber being photographed not far from Mister Donut. This happened several times during the day - young girls coming up and asking to take her picture with their digital cameras and cell phones. I should've charged for the privilege, but I lack that killer business instinct.

The narrow lanes and alleys behind Mister Donut were absolutely packed.

The effect one doughnut can have on a small child!

One of the reasons for going to Chungyo was to do some Christmas shopping for Amber. The selection and the prices there left a lot to be desired, however, so we drove across town to the Taichung branch of Toys Я Us トイザらス. Though it was far from empty, it was nothing like the mob scene at the department store, thanks no doubt to the fact that Christmas hasn't fully caught on yet in Taiwan. We settled on a box of Lego レゴ-like plastic bricks for Amber, seeing as how she had so much fun with a similar set at her Nanna and Grandad's house in Bremerton. I won't be at all disappointed should my daughter grow up one day to be an engineer!