Random stuff

The mighty pientang 弁當 boy prepares to unleash his wrath on the unsuspecting denizens of Fengyuan 豐原 below

A couple of Taiwan-related articles in the English-language Japanese media today. First, this Kyōdō News 共同通信社 story from the Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ:

MAEHARA OFFERS THANKS TO TAIWAN

"The chief policymaker of the ruling Democratic Party of Japan 民主党, Seiji Maehara 前原誠司, thanked visiting Taiwanese opposition leader Tsai Ing-wen 蔡英文 for the help the people of Taiwan provided to Japan following the March 11 earthquake-tsunami disaster 東日本大震災 and subsequent nuclear crisis at the Fukushima No. 1 power plant 福島第一原子力発電所事故, DPJ officials said.

Maehara, a former foreign minister and current chairman of the DPJ Policy Research Committee, expressed gratitude in a meeting with Tsai, leader of the Democratic Progressive Party 民主進步黨, who will challenge incumbent President Ma Ying-jeou 馬英九 of the Nationalist Party 中國國民黨 in an election in January.

Tsai told Maehara that many citizens in Taiwan have an affinity for Japan and have tried to provide as much help as possible as the Japanese cope with the natural disaster and nuclear crisis. Japan has received a raft off donations and relief goods from Taiwan since March 11."

The Taiwanese have proven to be very generous in their support of the Japanese who have suffered as a result of the triple disasters of March 11. Arguably, the people of Taiwan feel a closer affinity to the Japanese, despite the similarities in culture and language with their cousins in China. Fifty years of separation, combined with over a hundred years of influence from Japan (colonial and post-war periods) will do that to a society.  The recent improvement in relations between Taiwan and Japan could be undone, however, if the Ma administration decides to ramp up the patriotism over the Senkaku Islands 尖閣諸島 (for an example, you can following this disturbing link).

Meanwhile, NHK World ＮＨＫワールド has a short feature on the issue of selling arms to Taiwan:

US STILL STUDYING SELLING F-16 SALES TO TAIWAN

"A senior US government official says the United States is still considering weapons sales to Taiwan, including new F-16 fighter aircraft.

Acting Assistant Defense Secretary Peter Lavoy testified before the House Foreign Affairs Committee on Tuesday regarding US policies toward Taiwan.

Lavoy responded to criticism from lawmakers about the government's decision last month to upgrade Taiwan's existing fleet of F-16s instead of selling the territory new jets of the same type.

He said that retrofitting the fleet amounts to what he called 'the best bang for the buck' for now and is the immediate priority.

Lavoy said the US is talking with Taiwan about ways to step up the territory's defense capabilities against China and has not ruled out selling it new F-16 aircraft.

China is against both upgrading and replacing Taiwan's aging F-16 jets."

There is a video segment that goes along with the above report. The question of whether, and what, the United States should sell to Taiwan is being closely watched not only by China and Taiwan, but also by other players in this part of the world.

It would seem obvious that a well-armed Taiwan would be in the best interests of the U.S., but there are many factors at play here. One that doesn't get much attention is whether the U.S. feels comfortable selling advanced weaponry to the Taiwanese in light of the growing ties between China and Taiwan. Under Ma, Taiwan has moved closer towards the Chinese sphere of influence. The growing reliance on the Chinese market, combined with the current Taiwanese administration's reluctance to push for a distinct Taiwanese identity, is making it every more likely that some kind of union is inevitable down the line. In this case, would the American government want to provide high-tech weapons to Taiwan only for them to fall into the hands of the Chinese? Some officials are worried, it seems.

The above photograph is odd for several reasons. First, why would any mature adult want to be seen in public driving a car with images of an anime アニメ character (in this case, Hamtaro) emblazoned on the body? The writing under the decals is also a strange mix of Japanese and Chinese. Hamtaro is written as とっとこハム太郎 (Tottoko Hamutarō) in Japanese, while in Mandarin the name is rendered as  哈姆太郎 (Hāmǔtàiláng), hence ハ姆, which doesn't seem to make much sense. Also not adding up is the Japanese script which follows the hybrid moniker - あまりに男. "Too man(ly)"?

Just another day in the former colony.

Streaming along

I was surfing through the Taiwan blogosphere this afternoon, and was surprised to find one of my entries from a couple of months ago being discussed on one person's blog. In the comments section, someone else criticized me for my "apparent faith in the BBC's accuracy". To which I would reply to J that:

1.) your reading comprehension skills need some work;

2.) I don't rely on the BBC as my sole "accurate" source for information on Taiwan. But then neither do I unquestionably accept anecdotes and third-person generalizations from Western residents; and

3.) if you thought my original post was a "low blow" (the blogger didn't seem to think so), then all I can say is your hide must be made of gossamer.

Carp-shaped wind socks 鯉幟『こいのぼり』flutter in the wind over a local junkyard

As the above picture shows, symbols of Japanese culture are prevalent here in Taiwan (even if some are placed in unusual surroundings). The Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ posted this Kyōdō News 共同通信社 article today on another facet of things Japanese that is popular among many of the locals - music:

1,500 TAIWANESE COMPETE IN NHK AMATEUR SINGING CONTEST IN TAIPEI

"Nearly 1,500 Taiwanese entered a talent contest sponsored by NHK World ＮＨＫワールド in Taipei 台北 on Sunday to be named the best at crooning Japanese songs.

The taping, for broadcast on the international arm of Japan's public broadcaster, will be shown in Japan, Taiwan and about 150 other areas and countries on or around Oct. 29.

The Taipei show is the 12th NHK has taped overseas since the singing contest — known as "NHK Nodo Jiman ＮＨＫのど自慢" — began on radio 65 years ago.

It has been a television staple since 1953.

NHK began holding the contests overseas in 1998 and the Taipei taping is the first outside Japan since one in Mexico City in 2005.

Contestants have also tried their hand at singing Japanese songs in Beijing, Singapore and Seoul in the past.

Sunday's event attracted 1,480 participants, the most since 1998.

All participants are amateurs who must go through two stages, with the champion selected from 16 finalists.

Sachiko Kobayashi 小林幸子, a special guest on Sunday's program, said she was surprised to see how much the Taiwanese love singing.

Kobayashi encouraged future viewers to visit Taiwan, especially the Chen Lan Temple 大甲鎮瀾宮 in Greater Taichung 大台中."

Name that tune: A couple from Taiwan's indigenous Amis 阿美族 people sing at a contest sponsored by NHK World on Sunday in Taipei. KYŌDŌ PHOTO

As anyone who has had to suffer through karaoke カラオケ (or 卡拉ＯＫ, as it is known in Taiwan) can testify, enka 演歌 has had a big influence on the local music scene. Virtually every KTV has Japanese songs on file, while many popular Taiwanese tunes are actually enka songs that have had the lyrics either translated, or in many cases rewritten, into Mandarin 國語 or Taiwanese 台語. In our area, NHK Nodo Jiman is aired on Channel 107 on Sundays at noon. If I can remember, I'll check it out on the 30th.

Carp fishing downtown

Like most industrialized countries, Taiwan isn't immune from the phenomenon of suburbanization. Few places on this island more clearly demonstrate the effects of car ownership and large shopping malls/hypermarkets than the old downtown area of central T'aichung 台中. With each visit I make there, the decay just seems to get worse and worse. While it's true downtown Taichung lacks the menace of inner-city urban America, the shuttered storefronts, seedy fleabag hotels and おばさん prostitutes do make for a depressing walkabout. The Taichung area's resident Southeast Asian population tries its best to bring some vitality to the district on the weekends, but their presence only serves to keep away many Taiwanese. It's a shame because the central part of Taichung still contains a number of old buildings dating from the Japanese period. This might be one case where turning the area into a bland, homogenized Taiwanese "old town" might be the only way left to save it...

...if it isn't too late, that is.

Honto ほんと, a bakery specializing in red bean bread 小豆パン. The Chinese reads "Hungtou mienpao" 紅豆麵包, which means the same thing. We had lunch at a Japanese restaurant just a few doors down from this place. Most Japanese cuisine in Taiwan is fairly bland and uninteresting, but the stuff we had today was downright awful - oily fried rice, tasteless sushi 寿司, half-frozen sashimi 刺身, and overcooked tempura 天ぷら were the chief culprits, all of which were brought to our table by a surly middle-aged waitress. My wife said that the restaurant is a popular establishment known among Taichung residents for its tasty dishes, which probably just proves that many people here know virtually diddly-squat about good 日本料理. Perhaps this establishment-that-shall-remain-nameless is representative of the decline of downtown Taichung, where, not coincidentally, I came across these signs while walking among the decay:

An upscale-looking restaurant just opposite Taichung Park 台中公園. Pay no mind to the middle-aged hookers hanging around in front.

Proud of the taste (aji jiman) 味自慢 of their oden おでん, but closed for the day (or at least the afternoon)

This last picture was snapped through the rain-streaked rear window of the car which we were being driven around in. Castella カステラ is a Japanese sponge cake introduced into that country by the Portuguese in the 16th century. In Japan, the cake is most closely associated with the city of Nagasaki 長崎, hence the name on the sign (the crane appears to be a ripoff reworking of the Japan Airlines 日本航空 logo). I remember reading a delusional article in Compass Magazine (are there any that aren't?) a couple of years ago that listed castella as a "unique local food".

Sitting inside the above-mentioned Japanese restaurant. I'm probably smiling because a.) the meal was finally over; and b.) I didn't have to pay for it.

There's Amber in them thar hills

Like many localities in Taiwan, Fengyuan 豐原 has a Chungcheng Park 中正公園, complete with a smiling statue of that cuddly dictator, Chiang Kai-shek 蔣介石. The version here sits at the foot of some hills, and a network of short hiking trails have been established, which are very popular with weekend walkers. None of the paths can be considered difficult or strenuous, but for a five-and-a-half year-old child, they do make for a pretty good walkabout. Which I why I like to take Amber there, to give her a chance to get away from the traffic and ugly concrete tenements, and to take in the trees and the bugs. Where once I had to carry her around on my back when her little legs gave out, now she takes the lead, as she did this afternoon:

There was plenty of bamboo to swing from:

A proud little hiker beams upon reaching the top. Far off in the distance stand the high rises of central T'aichung 台中:

The sky was overcast, but the air was clear when looking down on Fengyuan, and into the neighboring town district of Houli 后里, all a part of that big, happy family known as Greater Taichung 大台中:

You know this is Taiwan when a Taoist temple is considered an appropriate place to play:

When I was a kid growing up in Corona, CA, my friends and I used to get chased off the grounds of a local Episcopalian church by the resident priest. Speaking of which, my family used to attend Sunday services (and I Sunday school) at that particular house of worship up until I was around the age of seven or so, at which point we suddenly, and mysteriously, stopped going. I didn't learn the reason until many years later - the priest there ran off with one of the (married) members of the congregation, and my mother was so disgusted by the moral failings of the church that she decided against attending services there (or at any other church) from that point on.

I can't thank my mom enough about that! :-)

To arms

My daughter plays a game at a local night market

Perhaps it's because of the dispute over the Senkaku Islands 尖閣諸島, but whatever the reason, the editors of the Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ seem to have a clearer understanding of the threat posed in this part of the world by a resurgent China than their media counterparts in the West. A good example can be seen in today's editorial, which discusses the recent decision by the U.S. government to sell arms to Taiwan ("Arms sale that angers Beijing"):

"...If Beijing wants an end to the arms sale, it should quit giving T'aipei 台北 reasons to want those weapons. The United States sells arms because Taiwan feels threatened.

While the U.S., like Japan, no longer formally recognizes Taiwan as a nation, it continues to sell arms to the Taipei government to ensure that it has the capacity to defend itself. That is a legal obligation enshrined in the Taiwan Relations Act 台灣關係法, which was promulgated and passed by the U.S. Congress in the aftermath of the U.S. decision to switch recognition from Taipei to Beijing.

The TRA, as the bill is known, has infuriated Beijing, which insists that Taiwan is a renegade province and argues that the arms sales encourage 'splittists' in Taiwan.

Moreover, the Chinese argue that the continuation of American weapons sales to Taiwan violate commitments made in the Shanghai Communique of 1982, in which the U.S. promised to decrease and ultimately end those deals. A slightly more sophisticated — but more chilling — argument is that the U.S. relationship with China is more important than its relationship with Taiwan and, therefore, the U.S. should bend to Chinese wishes for the greater good.

The U.S. counters that its commitment to Taiwan is based on legal and moral interests. The TRA obliges Washington to help Taiwan meet its defense needs. As long as Taipei feels threatened, the U.S. is there to help.

The moral dimension is simple: Taiwan is a democracy and its future should be determined by its citizens, not the hulking giant next door. Washington also argues that relations with Taiwan are an indication of its commitment to the region more generally; if the U.S. were to turn its back on Taiwan, it would send a chilling signal to other U.S. allies and partners about U.S. credibility more generally. There can be no indication that the U.S. is prepared to sacrifice its partners to keep China happy..."

The JT doesn't seem very concerned about the fallout from the Chinese side:

"...the Chinese reaction is likely to be limited for two reasons. First, Vice President Xi Jinping, the man widely anticipated to become president next year, is supposed to visit the U.S. later this year and that visit would not be able to take place under a cloud of anger over the arms sale. China cannot afford to play up the wrong done to them and then send their second-highest ranking official for a visit.

The second reason is that the sale likely strengthens the position of Taiwan President Ma Ying-jeou 馬英九, demonstrating that he, unlike his predecessor, enjoys good relations with the U.S. This should help him in the presidential campaign next year, and China would prefer to see Mr. Ma win a second term, rather than an opposition politician inclined toward independence of Taiwan.

If Beijing is so upset about the Taiwanese arms purchases, then it should do more to lessen the sense of threat that compels the Taipei government to want them.

There are more than 1,100 Chinese missiles targeting Taiwan. Despite Taiwanese complaints, Beijing continues to add to that inventory. China could easily redeploy the missiles so that they pose no threat to Taiwan. Of course, they are mobile missiles, so such a move would be temporary at best. But it would send a signal about Chinese intent and undermine the call for additional weapons in the future.

Cross-strait peace should be built on a genuine sense of peace shared by both parties; not unilateral disarmament by one side."

Chicken cooked in salty water

Trails, dude

My little one checks out the scenery at the start of the Wufeng Ch'ingt'ung Lin Hiking Trail 霧峰青桐林步道. The Kaminoge family visited the area in the late afternoon today to check the trails, or as much of one trail as we could before things started to get dark. The mountain scenery there was much more striking than that in the more accessible Tak'eng 大坑 area, so I'm planning on making the long scooter ride out to Wufeng on one of these upcoming Tuesday afternoons, and give myself more time to explore the trails.

Mother and daughter pause on the walk up from the parking lot. You can't see them in the photo, but Pamela and Amber were standing amid a thick cluster of buzzing dragonflies. We also saw a lot of butterflies today, as well as crickets, earthworms and even monkeys moving around in distant treetops.

Amber having fun jumping up and down on a short rope bridge. This was the point where we turned back before it got too dark.

A Japanese restaurant on Highway 3 國道三號. Kaiseki ryōri 懐石料理 is a traditional style of Japanese cuisine featuring many small dishes.

Beaching about Taiwan

Taiwan is an island. An island is a large body of land surrounded on all sides of by water. The early Portuguese called this land Ilha Formosa, meaning "beautiful island". Taking these facts into account, one could assume that Taiwan would be an ideal place for a beach lover. One would be wrong, especially when looking at the western half of this island, where 80% of the population live. On this long stretch of coastline facing the Taiwan Strait 台灣海峽 there is nary a decent beach to be found. Where there are stretches of sand and surf open to the public, one faces the daunting prospects of trash-strewn sand, detritus-filled surf and water of dubious sanitary quality. This is partly due to the legacy of Cold War political tensions, as for a number of years many areas along the coast were closed off to recreational users by the military and police, who feared a Chinese invasion force someday storming ashore. An even bigger legacy is industrial development, as the western coast is home to several large factory complexes, which doesn't do much for swimmers, or rare dolphins for that matter. But the main factor explaining the sad state of Taiwan's western beaches (or lack of them) is cultural.

Taking a look at a map of this island, you can see that, with the exception of the southern port city of Kaohsiung 高雄, all of western Taiwan's major cities and towns are located well-inland, as if they're collectively turning their backs on the sea. Despite living on an island, many people here don't know how to swim, and the cultural preference for sickly pale white skin, especially on women, discourages people from getting out and soaking up some rays. Even in other parts of the country where there are good beaches, such as K'enting (Kěn​dīng) 墾丁, many visitors spend large chunks of their time checking out the glorified night market that constitutes the region's main town, while avoiding any physical contact with the water or the sunshine.

And what has brought about this beaching...er, bitching? The fact that I was looking forward today (Saturday) to going with my wife and daughter to Mashakou 馬沙溝, one of the few remotely attractive places to enjoy the sun, sand and surf between Kenting in the south and Fulung 福隆 in the northeast. Located near T'ainan 台南, Amber and I went there a couple of years ago (with my friend Steve and his brood) and really enjoyed ourselves. Unfortunately, when Pamela called yesterday afternoon to see if the beach area was still open, she was told that it has been closed since the end of August. Apparently, it's only open during the summer months. Of course the fault is mainly mine, for not getting off my ass and taking Amber to the shore earlier, when Mashagou and other west coast swimming areas would have still been open for business. And yet, when I see all that coastline and think of what could be if only cultural attitudes toward the sun and the sea were different, I'm left once again with that cultural disconnect that keeps me and Taiwan so far apart from each other.

Oh well, at least I got to go to Okinawa 沖縄 this year.

Looking sunnier than my beach outing plans is the relationship these days between Japan and Taiwan. Friday's Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ has this Kyōdō News 共同通信社 on the signing of the investment pact between the two countries:

"Taiwan and Japan on Thursday signed an agreement that lowers bilateral investment barriers, a significant step toward an eventual free-trade deal between the two countries.

In the absence of diplomatic ties, the agreement was signed in T'aipei 台北 by Mitsuo Ōhashi 大橋光夫, chairman of the Japan Interchange Association 財団法人交流協会, and his Taiwanese counterpart, Peng Run-tsu 彭榮次, chairman of T'aipei's East Asian Relations Commission.

The accord covers three areas: trade liberalization, trade promotion and protection of investment. It will now be sent to Taiwan's Parliament, the Legislative Yuän 立法院, for review before it enters into force.

The investment arrangement is the first economic deal Taiwan has signed with a nonallied country since Taipei and Beijing 北京 inked a preferential free-trade agreement in June last year.

Ōhashi said the pact is a major milestone for bilateral relations that will allow exchanges between the two countries to enter a new phase.

Japan is Taiwan's second-largest trading partner and its biggest investor, with more than $16 billion invested over the past 50 years, while Taiwan is Japan's fourth-largest trading partner and has invested about $1.6 billion in its Asian neighbor."

Downtown Fengyuan 豐原 on a Friday night