Monday, June 9, 2008

Japan Trip Day 1: Back in Blade Runner Land 日本旅行5月31日

I'm back in Taiwan after an 8-day trip to Japan. You might notice the lack of an exclamation point at the end of the previous sentence, for while I'm happy to see Pamela and, especially, Amber again after a week-long absence, I'm already missing the Land of the Rising Sun. I went to several new (for me, that is) places on this visit, as well as revisiting a couple of others. During the week, I'll be posting pictures and a few videos, as well as describing where I went and what I did there. 見て下さい!

The first day was a short one, actually, as I didn't arrive at Kansai International Airport 関西国際空港 until around 7:45pm on Saturday evening. After going through Immigration and taking the Nankai Line 南海本線 to Namba 難波 Station in Ōsaka 大阪, it was after 9:30 by the time I checked in to my hotel (the Business Hotel Nissei ニッセイ in Namba - a great location, and a reasonable price, earns it a definite thumbs up from this traveler). Despite feeling tired after the flight, I went for a walk around Namba, part of the Minami ミナミ area, the center of Ōsaka's nightlife. This being Saturday night, the covered arcades radiating out from the different Namba stations (Nankai, Kintetsu 近鉄 and the Midōsuji subway lines 御堂筋線) were packed with people, young and old, residents and tourists, Japanese and gaijin 外人, looking for somewhere to eat or drink. There was a time when I didn't care much for Ōsaka (I used to think it was too polluted and ugly, but it's amazing how relocating to a place like Taiwan can so quickly change one's perceptions), but with each visit there in recent years I've come to like the energy that the city generates. However, on this particular Saturday night, this traveler didn't stay out too long, in preparation for the long day ahead on Sunday.

At the intersection of the Nankai-dōri 南海通 and Sennichimae 千日前 arcades.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

In the news

One week after the fact, the Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ finally notices what Ma Ying-jeou 馬英九 didn't say in his inauguration speech ("China-wary Ma omits Japan in inaugural speech"):

"Amid roaring applause in a packed stadium, Taiwanese President Ma Ying-jeou heralded what he called 'a new era' in relations with China in his inaugural speech, delivered at the Taipei Arena just hours after he took office May 20. But for many in Japan, from where the most well-wishers after those from the United States came to attend Ma's inauguration, the key speech fell flat. Despite reports earlier this month that Ma would pledge to bolster ties with Japan and reiterate his support for the U.S.-Japan Security Alliance in the speech, he made no mention of Tōkyō."

Needless to say, the Japanese delegation wasn't very pleased:

"Delegation leader Takeo Hiranuma, a House of Representatives member who leads a pro-Taiwan caucus, politely rapped Ma after the speech. 'If you are re-elected in four years, I hope you'll clearly mention Japan in your next inaugural speech,' Hiranuma told Ma..."

Although the article doesn't touch on this, it seems Hiranuma's words to Ma were mistranslated, something to the effect that Ma was told that Hiranuma hoped he could deliver his next inauguration speech in fluent Japanese! Clearly, last Tuesday was not Japan's day. The article, meanwhile, goes to say:

"Considering Ma's focus on Japan at key junctures in the presidential race, the omission raised eyebrows. But Ma's even stronger platform focus on China, whose relations with Japan are often strained, goes a long way in explaining why Ma felt Japan — a key, albeit unofficial, ally of Taiwan — did not get a mention..."

No surprise here, it was most likely due to Chinese pressure that Ma decided to omit any references to Japan:

"Lingering disputes between China and Japan — especially over the war — 'make Ma wary of being seen as too pro-Japan' while seeking accommodation with Beijing..."

It's difficult to imagine anyone in their right mind ever mistaking Ma Ying-jeou for being "pro-Japan", but if he is so afraid of offending China that he couldn't make even a single reference to Taiwan's most important economic/military/political partner/supporter after the United States, then his administration has not gotten off to a very confidence-inspiring start.

The JT article, incidentally, is a shortened version of the story written by Max Hirsch of Kyōdō News 共同通信社, which can be seen at Thirsty Ghosts. Hirsch's full article goes on to clarify:

"...Ma's own background as KMT standard-bearer...further illuminates his omission of Japan in a speech that charts the future of Taiwan's foreign policies. Officially supporting eventual unification with China, the KMT identifies strongly with Chinese nationalism and has typically fared poorly at fostering a rapport with Japan."

Ma tried to cover his tracks at a later press conference:

"...stress(ing) the importance of bilateral ties with Japan, Taiwan's second largest trading partner after China, top foreign tourism destination and potential security partner. 'We are willing to promote even stronger ties with Japan,' he said, but added, 'I can't really name all the countries in my inaugural address.'

He certainly mentioned China often enough!

Next week I'll be taking a one-week break from all this talk about the most glorious people of China by visiting Japan, land of the "little devils".

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

In the news

Tom Plate definitely has a thing going for Ma Ying-jeou 馬英九. In today's Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ he writes (in "A winner that Beijing would be wise to cheer"):

"His name is Ma Ying-jeou, 57, he went to Harvard, and my wife volunteers that he is quite good looking. Handsome or whatever, he gave a terrific inaugural speech that is important for everyone. That's because the policy directions taken in Taipei regarding its head-to-head relationship with Beijing could help determine whether a war erupts in Asia someday."

It's late, I'm tired, and I'm tired of reading commentaries like this one. It basically says that, compared to the previous administration, Ma is more pragmatic or reasonable, and this is a great opportunity for China to get what it wants from Taiwan...which, of course, is for the good of Taiwan as well:

"Ma's way is different. For him almost all issues are negotiable, the mainland as well as Taiwan deserves respect and the two must live in an arrangement of peace and stability...He avoided antagonizing the mainland while not giving the keys to the island to Beijing. Instead of speaking in grand (and illusive) concepts, he proposed practical, step-by-step negotiations designed to build confidence and trust...Beijing would be well advised to play along with Ma...it is very unlikely that Beijing, for the foreseeable future anyway, will find a better man with whom to negotiate than Ma. He's sensible, international, and strong on vision. Ma wants to lift the touchy bilateral relationship out of the basement of adolescent rivalry and into the master sitting room of adult diplomacy. China should exert every effort to work with him to its greatest abilities."

I have a feeling there are going to be a lot more opinion pieces like this one in the weeks and months to come. I do hope the homoerotic hero worship gets toned down a bit, however.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

In the news

The Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ is usually one of the better newspapers around when it comes to analyzing what is going on in Taiwan, but today's editorial, "Mr. Ma reaches out", was not up to the paper's usual standards. According to the JT's editors:

"Taiwan has a new president. Mr. Ma Ying-jeou, of the KMT (Nationalist) Party was inaugurated Monday after a decisive win in March's election. In his inaugural remarks, Mr. Ma hit the right notes, reaching out to both Taiwanese at home and Chinese 150 kilometers (93 miles) away across the Taiwan Strait. This is a historic opportunity to stabilize relations and establish a strong foundation for peace between Taiwan and the mainland. Will Beijing seize it?"

The question here concerns what "notes" Ma did or did not hit. The Japan Times states that Ma won the election because:

"Voters, tired of the ideological policies of former President Chen Shui-bian, have embraced the pragmatic, economics-first agenda promoted by Mr. Ma."

After commenting on the importance of closer economic cooperation between Taiwan and China, the editorial points out that:

"...Chen, and his Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), feared that increasing ties with the mainland would render Taiwan vulnerable to Chinese pressure. His government did its best to keep the two separate. For that effort..., Mr. Chen was labeled a 'splittist' whose attempts to promote Taiwanese national identity were considered by Beijing to be steps toward independence. The mainland's distrust of Mr. Chen grew throughout his administration and the Chinese government did its best to counter every Taiwanese initiative and humiliate Mr. Chen..."

So far, the editorial does an evenhanded job of clarifying the problems in the relationship between Chen and the Chinese government. From this point on, however, quality control begins to slacken:

"In his inaugural address, Mr. Ma spoke of a common Chinese heritage and, in a particularly bold gesture, he referred to three statements by Chinese President Hu Jintao on cross-strait relations — 'building mutual trust, shelving controversies, finding commonalities despite differences, and creating together a win-win solution.' Mr. Ma said Mr. Hu's 'views are very much in line with our own.' He also promised to negotiate on the basis of the '1992 consensus,' a slippery concept but one that Beijing insists upon."

From what I've read of the English translation of his speech, and from the analyses of several online bloggers here in Taiwan, Ma did more than just "speak" of a shared Han Chinese 漢民族 heritage, he practically reveled in it, while downplaying anything that makes Taiwan stand out from China proper. His references to the "1992 consensus" are also worrisome, as it isn't even clear that such an agreement actually exists. At least the Times is right in calling it "slippery". In fairness, Ma has never hidden his goal of reaching out to China, but the editorial doesn't raise any questions as to how far Ma is willing to go, and at what risk to Taiwan's sovereignty, in order to reach some kind of agreement or modus operandi with the Chinese (which, according to his speech, Ma is one of 1.5 billion or so). Instead, it states:

"The eventual success of (Ma's) entire platform depends, first and foremost, on forging a broad consensus in Taiwan that includes even those people who did not vote for him. Again, to his credit, the new president recognizes this. His speech included phrases in the local Taiwanese dialect as well as in Hakka and the aboriginal languages. He highlighted Taiwan's need for international space and 'respect.'"

What the Times failed to point out here is that, as far as I'm aware, Ma omitted any references to Taiwan's native population in his remarks, and one aboriginal legislator actually walked out of the speech in protest at this. And while Taiwan does need more "space" and "respect", we aren't informed that on the day before Ma's inauguration, China once again applied pressure on the World Health Organization to deny Taiwan any form of standing in that world body. But then, neither did Ma on Tuesday. The editorial then goes to point out other things from Ma's speech - no negotiations of unification during his presidential term, and the need for China to make progress on the democratic front, before pointing to China's positive response:

"The challenge now is to move beyond the rhetorical pats on the back and to substantive acts that reduce the risk of miscalculation and misperception in the Taiwan Strait and build genuine confidence between the two sides of the strait. The start of regular cross-strait charter flights is one such promising development; the expansion of tourism and lifting of limits on Taiwan investment on the mainland are others. As this process unfolds, the two governments may even be able to agree on a peace accord that stabilizes cross-strait relations and eliminates a regional flash point."

It's hard to disagree with this. After all, who doesn't want peaceful relations across the strait? If such an agreement is ever reached, however, would Ma put it to the voters of Taiwan first, or would he use the KMT's overwhelming majority in the legislature to ram it through, and then crack down on any dissent that may arise in the aftermath. After all, the KMT has had a lot of experience in that latter field. That, however, is a question that can't be answered here, and it is proper the Japan Times makes no mention of this in its editorial. What is missing, and it's a most puzzling omission at that, is that while Ma talked at length about common Chinese heritages and all that, and even briefly mentioned the United States in his speech, he said nothing at all about Japan. Zero, nada, not a word. I would have thought this would have caught the attention of the Japan Times, and led them to speculate on what that might mean to the future course of Japan-Taiwan relations, but the editorial staff chose not to take up this topic. Instead, it has been left to Max Hirsch of Kyōdō News 共同通信社 to point this out, in an excellent article which can be found on the Thirsty Ghosts website: 

There is also a second commentary in the Japan Times today on Ma's speech, "Cross-strait opportunity" , by Ralph Cossa. Based on the theme of "be careful what you wish for", Cossa raises the interesting question:

"...can Beijing, after hearing "no" for the past eight years, now take "yes" for an answer."

Cossa is referring to the same conciliatory remarks Ma made in his inauguration speech that the JT editorial also spoke of:

"Ma laid out the normalization of economic and cultural relations with the mainland as immediate goals, but warned that 'Taiwan doesn't just want security and prosperity; it wants dignity.' Herein lies the rub! It should be relatively easy for Beijing to respond positively to Ma's calls for direct weekend charter flights and visits to Taiwan by mainland tourists and other economic and cultural exchanges. Some security gesture, such as a visible drawback of missiles opposite Taiwan, is also doable. But is Beijing prepared to make significant gestures aimed at improving Taiwan's sense of security and relieving its international isolation? A failure by Beijing to respond positively to Ma's olive branches will seriously undercut the new Taiwanese leader as he tries to build consensus at home in support of his forward-leaning cross-strait policies. His address is already being labeled by the opposition as 'naive' and 'wishful thinking.' Will Beijing prove this to be the case?"

Will it indeed. The Chinese government has a long history of clumsy handling of issues between it and Taiwan - will anything be different this time? Not if this is any indication:

"Beijing immediately opted to pass on its first chance to make a positive political gesture by once again blocking Taiwan's bid for observer status in the World Health Organization (WHO). Chen's decision to apply as 'Taiwan' rather than 'Chinese Taipei' regrettably made it easier for Beijing to once again block this request, but it could have asked the WHO to postpone consideration of Taiwan's bid for a few days to allow for a reformulation of the application, rather than quickly excluding it from the agenda. As a result, Beijing needs to quickly find some other venues to provide the dignity that Ma seeks and Taiwan richly deserves."

Cossa is no believer in Taiwanese self-determination judging from some of his past writings, but he does make some good observations here:

"It appears that Beijing is still struggling to figure out how to deal with a potentially friendly government in Taipei after years of just saying no to everything and branding every positive gesture by the Chen administration a 'splittist trick.' The real concern, as some Chinese candidly expressed to me during a recent visit to Beijing, is finding ways to improve Taiwan's 'international breathing space' without further enhancing its status as a sovereign independent entity. Fear that gestures once made would be exploited if Chen's Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) returned to power were also cited as a reason for moving slowly, even though moving too slowly (or not at all) will increase the prospects of a DPP return."

Cossa then presents a long wish list of things Beijing could do:

1. "...it can observe Ma's call for a 'truce' in the international arena. In recent years, Beijing has taken great delight in humiliating the Chen administration by spiriting away Taiwan's few remaining allies, normally through a shameless bidding war. This must stop. If no one recognizes the Republic of China..., why shouldn't it just declare itself the Republic of Taiwan now and end the 'one China' charade?"

2. "A more dramatic military gesture is also needed. Merely withdrawing some easily redeployed mobile missiles is not enough. Beijing needs to deactivate and plow over some of the 1,000-plus missile sites it has poised opposite Taiwan as a true goodwill gesture."

3. "The semi-official cross-strait dialogue between Beijing's Association for Relations Across the Taiwan Strait (ARATS) and Taipei's Straits Exchange Foundation (SEF) also needs to resume, if for no other reason than to facilitate the institution of the economic 'three links' that both sides profess to support. Dialogue should also begin, either through ARATS-SEF or through a quasi-official 'track two' gathering, on cross-strait confidence building and conflict avoidance measures."

4. "Beijing also needs to loosen restrictions it has imposed on Taiwan in the WHO as a first step toward allowing Chinese Taipei to gain observer status as a 'health entity' next year."

and 5. "Beijing also needs to stop its heavy-handed pressure aimed at blocking participation by Taiwan scholars at academic gatherings and should take steps to help elevate Taiwan's status in the nongovernmental Council for Security Cooperation in the Asia Pacific and other track-two organizations, while also supporting higher-level Taiwan participation in the APEC Leaders Meeting and other forums."

One question that Cossa doesn't ask, however, if whether Ma Ying-jeou will be the kind of leader who can move China to respond in ways that are beneficial to the overall benefit of Taiwan, and its 23 million citizens (including those who didn't vote for him). There is nothing to do now but sit back and watch the drama unfold!

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Tak'eng (Dakeng) 大坑

Yesterday had been rainy, and the sky looked threatening when I woke up at 5:30 this morning, but in the end I was very glad I rode out to the Takeng area to go hiking. The rain never came down, the air was clean and the views from the numbers 5 and 5-1 trails were great. Most impressive was the scenery in the distance on the opposite side of the mountain, away from T'aichung (Taijhong) 台中 and looking towards what I think was the town of Hsinshe (Sinshe) 新社. The few numbers of hikers out on the trails also encouraged a lot of the local wildlife to make its presence known, including one bold pheasant out looking for breakfast. All in all, it was a great 2 hours and 57 minutes, and 10,059 steps.




Monday, May 19, 2008

The weekend

I spent a lot of time in the outdoors this weekend, beginning with Saturday morning's hike with Michael Turton up the No. 4 Trail in the Tak'eng (Dakeng) 大坑 area of T'aichung (Taijhong) 台中. Michael has a great write-up of our walk on his blog The View from Taiwan, so let me just say that I deny completely the rumors that I was stuck behind this old American Toto fan who was routinely being passed up on the trail by obasans several decades older than him.


Following the morning hike, I went to work as usual in the afternoon. Immediately afterwards, however, Pamela (with Amber in tow) picked me up, and we drove straight to Hsit'ou (Sitou) 溪頭, a national forest recreation area located in the central mountains, where Steve and his family were waiting for us. We arrived before 7pm, and after checking into our shared room at the Youth Activity Center, the three of us (Amber, Pamela and I) took a walk in the dark. We were far from alone, however, as we were surrounded by fireflies, a sight which delighted Amber to no end (and got me pretty excited too, I have to admit). Naturally, it's extremely difficult to photograph fireflies, but we had an easier time getting this shot of a monster moth clinging to the window of the Youth Center when we got back:


This morning, following breakfast, we set off on a long day of walking. Little did I know at the time (namely because my wife failed to inform me of the fact until afterwards), but the 2880 meter (1.79 mile) trail we took to reach the Giant Cypress Tree 神木, Hsitou's most famous landmark, was also the most challenging route to get there. It took a couple of hours of uphill walking, most of the time with a 30-pound child strapped to my back (and towards the end, she fell asleep, and all her weight shifted to my left side as a result). The tree itself, when we finally got to it, was something of a letdown. True, it is 46 meters (151 feet) high, 16 meters (52 feet) wide and over 2800 years old, but I have to say I've seen more impressive redwoods back in California and Washington. However, the rush that came with having successfully carried Amber uphill for almost 3 kilometers more than compensated for any feelings of disappointment I may have had regarding the tree.


From the Great Cypress Tree, it was mostly a downhill stroll to the University Pond 大學地. The scenery along the way was great, thanks in no small part to the fact that the forest recreation area is run by the forestry department of National Taiwan University 台湾大学. As a result, there are several experimental groves of trees located there, which means you can see a greater variety of trees in Hsitou than you would normally expect to see in one small area. It all makes for a great walking experience, though the overcast skies made for lousy photographic conditions. Amber really enjoyed the walk down to the pond, and shamelessly lapped up the attention she received from many of the other visitors. Here she is dancing to her father's tuneless rendition of "Surfin' Bird":


Once at the pond, we finally met up again with Steve and his brood who, having done a lot of walking around the previous day while we were still en route from Fengyuan (Fongyuan) 豊原, hadn't gone with us on the hike up to the cypress tree (but eventually ended up following our route anyway). The University Pond contains Hsitou's other photo op, the Arched Bamboo Bridge 竹拱橋:


Walk completed, it was getting late in the afternoon, so we left for home (Fengyuan in our case, Taichung in Steve's). Hsitou looks like a great place to explore, so I hope to come again.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

What should be obvious to all...

...apparently isn't obvious to some. The scene behind my apartment building today:


There is a narrow lane that I use everyday as a shortcut to get to work. Most of the route is wide enough for cars and even trucks, but at one end the road narrows to a point that only the smallest of blue trucks can navigate. As you can see from the photo above, there's a sign indicating that cars shouldn't go beyond that point, and if that isn't clear enough, it should be obvious that the last stretch of asphalt is strictly scooter territory. And yet, every now and then, someone tries to drive through, and gets stuck as a result.

Today's case was a little different, though. Most of the time, drivers will summon a forklift from one of the small factories nearby to extricate their cars. The motorist of the van pictured above, however, seemed to have abandoned his/her vehicle. It was there at 9:30 this morning when I left for work, and it was there at noon when I came home for lunch. And when I went out again at 1:30, it was still there, only this time a couple of police officers had shown up to check it out. Whatever happened in the end, it was gone when I came home at 10 o'clock this evening.