Walking from Hōgen (Toyohara) to Tōsei, and back again

On this sometimes warm, sometimes cold afternoon, I took a long walk along the Tūng​fēng Bicycle Trail 東豐自行車緑廊. And I do mean long, for if the distance markers were correct (and my sore feet have me thinking they were), I covered roughly 16 kilometers (9.9 miles) round-trip in about 3¼ hours. Next time I'll know better than to wear my ordinary shoes.

The cherry blossoms 櫻花「サクラ」 were still hanging in there today.

The Tūng​fēng Iron Bridge 東豐鐵橋, the ostensible reason for my walk today. The last time I strolled this route , I was stopped by the Tà​chiǎ​ River 大甲溪, as the bridge didn't exist at that time. Crossing over to the Tūng​shì​h 東勢 side meant that I had finally walked every part of this trail. Mission accomplished!

The trail looks prettier now than it did almost four years ago.

On the site of the old Méi​tzu Station 梅子車站, there was a photo display of scenes of damage from the Sept. 21, 1999 Chí​chí​ earthquake 921大地震 (the Fēng​yuán 豐原/Dongshi​ area was hit hard by the quake). How apropos in light of recent events in Japan.

An old Japanese-style home.

A section of railroad track near the former Shíhkāng​ Station 石岡車站 that had buckled as a result of the 921 quake.

One difference between walking this trail today compared to October 2007 was that there were a lot more cyclists out riding on this weekday afternoon. Still, it was a pleasant walk, and proof that bicycle trails are not just for bikes.

Signs

They try so hard, but don't always get it right:

This sign is supposed to read "Fuku no hambai" 服の販売「ふくのはんばい」, referring to the selling of clothing. However, instead of the kanji character 売, meaning "to sell", the sign maker used 亮, which looks similar, but means "clear" or "help" (it also appears as if し was used, and not い, which would render the phrase as "fuku no hambashi"). This picture was taken on T'iēnchīn Road 天津路, a wholesale clothing district in T'áichūng 臺中.

This clothing and shoes store on Tūngshān Road 東山路 has got the 売 down right, but has gotten tripped up by that pesky ol' small っ. So instead of zutto ずっと ("completely", "totally"), we get the meaningless zutsuto ずつと.

In the news: 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami ２０１１年東北地方太平洋地震

Tomorrow afternoon will mark exactly one week since the devastating earthquake and tsunami 津波 (not to mention nuclear accidents) that have wreaked havoc on the Tōhoku region 東北地方 in Japan. The news has been exhaustively covered by CNN, but often in a frustrating manner bordering on sensationalism. Is it really necessary to quote every so-called "expert" on every possible scenario concerning what's going on at Fukushima Daiichi 福島第一原子力発電所? No wonder foreigners are fleeing Japan in droves, and people overseas are worried about radioactive clouds floating across the oceans, and stocking up on useless iodine tablets. Taiwanese aren't immune from the fear - as my friend Micheal Turton puts it, "these same people who run red lights without batting an eyelash are terrified of invisible particles from distant nations." Of course what is happening in Fukushima 福島 is a cause for concern, and the Tokyo Electric Power Company 東京電気 certainly hasn't done a credible job in the public relations department when it comes to informing the public about what is going on, and what it means to public safety (even the Japanese prime minister, Naoto Kan 菅直人, has complained that TEPCO hasn't kept him up to date on what the hell is going on). The BBC is a more restrained alternative to CNN and the local news channels, but the best source for factual, straightforward reporting on the disaster in Japan has been the Japanese broadcaster NHK 日本放送協会. The NHK World website has been streaming continuous English-language video coverage since the tragedy first unfolded last Friday.

Considering the fact that Japan isn't an attractive vacation destination at the moment, it comes as no surprise that EVA Air 長榮航空 has canceled a number of flights this month from T'ái​wān​ 台灣, as reported in this Kyōdō News 共同通信社 article carried in the Japan Times ジャパンタイムズ :

"Taiwanese carrier EVA Airways has scrubbed dozens of March flights to and from Japan in the wake of Friday's quake-tsunami calamity, including its daily Sendai 仙台 service....

In a website posting updated Tuesday evening, Eva said flights to and from Sapporo 札幌 on Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday have been canceled.

Tōkyō 東京 flights have also been canceled, with the service between T'ái​pěi​'s 臺北 Songshan International Airport 臺北松山機場 and Narita International Airport 成田国際空港 canceled from Tuesday until Saturday, and the return leg canceled from Wednesday to Monday. Flights between Taipei's Taoyuan International Airport 臺灣桃園國際機場 and Tōkyō's Haneda airport 東京国際空港「羽田空港」 are canceled for Wednesday, Friday, Sunday, March 23, 25, 27 and 30.

Flights to and from Sendai, which sustained heavy tsunami damage, have been canceled until June 30."

Obviously, going to Sendai is out of the question, as work to get the runway back in operation is focusing on allowing relief flights to get in, and bring in much needed supplies and personnel. And unless there is an absolute need to travel there, Tōkyō, which is suffering from rolling power blackouts and worries over possible radiation contamination, is best avoided for now (though China Airlines 中華航空 is still flying there for the time being). As reported by various media, Narita International Airport is swamped by people either fleeing to other parts of Japan, or leaving the country altogether. Such worries are understandable, and leaving is probably a prudent course of action for those who don't have to be there. What I can't understand, though, are the questions being asked on Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree forum by travelers wondering if they should cancel their upcoming trips to Japan. The thing is almost all of the people seeking advice on cancellations were planning on visiting locales far away from the disaster zone. How difficult can it be to pull out a map (or look at one online), and determine just how far places like Kyōto 京都 and Hiroshima 広島 are from the Tōhoku region? In a week of a tumbling Nikkei 225 日経平均株価 and a strengthening yen, Japan could certainly use the income from tourists.

Speaking of tourism, there has been a number of articles reporting on the effects the triple whammy of earthquake, tsunami and nuclear woes is having (or may have) on both the Japanese and global economies. Most of these stories have concentrated on disruptions to factories producing automobiles and electronics products, two of Japan's biggest exports, as well as the extensive damage to transportation networks, oil refineries and port facilities. What hasn't been discussed yet is what effect the disaster has had on Tōhoku's natural and cultural attractions. Time will soon tell, no doubt, on how well Matsushima Bay 松島, the sacred island of Kinkasan 金華山 or the National Treasure 国宝 temples of Hiraizumi 平泉, to name just several, have withstood the ravages of quakes and waves. Hopefully, the day will come again (and soon) when it will be possible to travel the narrow road to the deep north 憶のほそ道 once again.

頑張れ日本！

Spring training

It turns out I do know someone who was directly affected by the Sendai earthquake and tsunami ２０１１年東北地方太平洋地震. Masanori, a former student of mine back when Pamela and I were living in Yokkaichi 四日市, is attending a civil aviation college next to Sendai Airport 仙台空港, training to become an airline pilot. He was there on Friday afternoon when the tsunami 津波 rolled in. Fortunately, he was fine, but the same could not be said for his car. Apparently, he was evacuated by raft from a building adjacent to his school, and was taken to an evacuation center. His mother expects him to be back in Yokkaichi in a few days' time. I'm not sure what the long-term effect will be on his pilot training, but the school's light planes were damaged by the wave, and the dormitory has been closed to the students. But at least he is safe and sound, which is the most important thing, of course.

Far away from the troubles in northeastern Japan (though not far from mind, especially when remembering that such a disaster could easily happen here, as well), we enjoyed this absolutely beautiful not-yet-officially spring day by going to a local park, and letting Amber take a few swings at some balls. We'll probably be doing a lot of this, at least for the next month or so, as crunch time has arrived after our extended Lunar New Year 春節 vacation back in Washington.

My little Fēng​yuán ​豐原 Slugger prepares to bash the ball.

Amber also worked on her fielding skills.

Dad prepares to apply some wood to the cowhide...er, put plastic on plastic.

The first time Amber and I went by this house (she on her bike, me following behind on foot), everyone sitting around outside turned round to give us (well, me, anyway) the Hairy Eyeball. The second time around, no one but the little kid paid us any attention. From somewhere inside the home came the (prerecorded) sounds of aboriginal drumming.

Appreciating the little things

The scenes that I've been reading about and seeing on NHK 日本放送協会, CNN and BBC about the massive earthquake in Japan ２０１１年東北地方太平洋地震 almost defy belief - the massive temblor (8.9 on the Richter scale; the maximum of 7 on the Japan Meteorological Agency seismic intensity scale 気象庁震度階級); the 10-meter (33 feet) high tsunami 津波, carrying along cars and ships as if they were toys, engulfing coastal communities (not to mention the runway of Sendai Airport 仙台空港); the fires raging at oil terminals, and in the town of Kesennuma 気仙沼; and now the news of a massive explosion at a nuclear power plant in Fukushima 福島第一原子力発電所. I know many people who live, or have lived, in Japan, and/or have friends and family living there. Fortunately, to the best of my knowledge, everyone concerned is safe and sound. The same can't be said, however, for the over 1000 people that NHK is reporting have lost their lives so far in the disaster.

Perhaps it was with this news in mind that the first signs of spring evident this afternoon along the T'án​yǎ​shén​ bicycle trail 潭雅神綠園道 seemed to take on a particular beauty. Be it cherry blossoms, sunflowers or buzzing bees, there was plenty of evidence that life goes on, no matter what has happened, or where it has occurred.

I've been considering making a trip to Sendai 仙台 and other parts of Tōhoku 東北地方 next summer (this year I'm thinking of going to Okinawa 沖縄). Despite all that has happened, I have no reason yet to change my plans. I remember going to Kōbe 神戸 about a year and a half after the Great Hanshin earthquake 阪神・淡路大震災, and being surprised at how rapidly the city had recovered (at least on the exterior). I'm confident Sendai will bounce back just as quickly, and I look forward to contributing to reconstruction efforts by pumping some of my tourist yen into the local economy next year.

I'm not lovin' it

The new Bradt Taiwan travel guide came in the mail yesterday. How new is it? So new that Amazon neglected to send me an email informing me that it had been shipped. So new that up until a couple of days ago, the Bradt travel guides website didn't even have the book listed. So new that I haven't had a chance to give it more than a cursory look, so I can't say yet how it stacks up against the recently published Lonely Planet Taiwan​ guide. That quick perusal, however, did turn up the interesting fact (for me, anyway) that, for the first time in English-language T'ái​wān​ 台灣-centered guidebook history, my home area of Fēng​yuán ​豐原 has been mentioned as a possible destination. For that matter, my edition of the Japanese-language 地球の歩き方 (dating from 2005-06) doesn't give this former county seat any heed, either. Author Steven Crook accurately describes Fengyuan as a "standard-issue, medium-sized city", and lists the Hòu​fēng 后豐自行車綠廊 and Tūngfēng 東豐自行車綠廊 bicycle trails as the (only) reasons to visit, with brief but informative descriptions of both (page 171 of the guidebook).

Has TCFKAF (or The City Formerly Known As Fengyuan) finally made it to the big leagues? If this ex-city desires more than just a cup of coffee up in the Show, it's going to need a Subway or two. That's "Subway" as in the sandwich-shop chain, and not an underground railway (though that is supposedly on the drawing board for some future point in time). According to an article put out by the Associated Press:

"Subway now has more restaurants worldwide than McDonald's. The sandwich chain surpassed the world's largest hamburger chain in terms of number of stores in the U.S. in 2002 and now it has taken the global lead. Subway had 33,749 restaurants worldwide at the end of last year, according to the company. McDonald's Corp. had 32,737, according a regulatory filing."

Here in Fengyuan, however, the score is McDonald's 5, Subway 0. The fifth branch of the Golden Arches, in fact, only just opened a couple of months ago as part of the new A-Mart hypermarket complex. That's five in a district that had a population of 165,000 before it was absorbed into a larger T'áichūng city 臺中市 last November. Technically speaking, there are outlets of Subway here now that the former cities and towns of T'áichūng County 臺中縣 are part of one, big happy urban conglomeration, but it's hardly convenient for me to hop on the scooter or drive the car to buy a Steak-and-Cheese or BBQ Pork sandwich. In central Taiwan, at least, Muammar McDonald's reigns supreme. A Tunisian- or Egyptian-styled fast food uprising doesn't seem to be in the culinary cards for now, at least.

bradttaiwan.blogspot.com/

WTF 日本語

Walking through the streets of T'áichūng's 臺中 Īchūngchiēh 一中街 area every Tuesday evening on the way to my weekly Mandarin lesson makes me feel old. Chock full of students (as well as those of school-age), all the businesses there (food stands, tea houses, clothing stores and so on) cater to the youth market. In an environment such as this, it's only natural to see English and Japanese being employed in an attempt to ratchet up points on the coolness scale, and bring in the young punters. And as anyone who has been in East Asia can tell you, sometimes the results aren't always so successful. A case in point is this stand selling oden おでん, or Kuāntūngchǔ 關東煮 as it's called here in T'áiwān 台灣 (from the Japanese Kantō-ni 関東煮, which is what oden is apparently called in Nagoya 名古屋):

The mistake in this case lies with the phonetic transliteration of Kantō into hiragana 平仮名. It should look like this: かんとう. But instead of the final う, the sign maker used the katakana 片仮名 syllabogram ラ, which looks similar, but is written in roman letters as "ra". Thus, we have "kantora" in a weird hybrid of two syllabic writing systems. This kind of mistake is not uncommon in Taiwan.